Quick question... I've read a bunch on changing out the cv axles in my '95 4 runner but still a little clear on the whether or not I have to actually take off the 54mm axle nut to get the cv axle out. I know I need to take the clip off at the end of the cv axle but do I need to actually remove the outer nut also? I have the automatic 4WD and will be changing out my driver's side cv axle today. Thanks!

 

Yes you have to remove it. DO NOT use a flat head screw driver and a hammer to get it loose if you do not have a socket big enough. Just go buy the right tools lol.

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That's kinda what I figured. Wasn't planning on changing the cv for another couple weeks but scored a sweet deal on a new cv off Craigslist yesterday and would like to change it today. Finding that socket is tough locally without ordering it which is what I had planned on doing since I wasn't going to change it for a few weeks. I just might go the hammer and flathead screwdriver or cold chisel method if I can't find a socket local though. I know that's wrong but I want to get this changed since I have it. Lol

 

Not gonna lie, i've done the flat head/hammer method once....i was in a pinch though!

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Don't lift the truck to swap them, it is way easier, just turn the steering either way and they should remove easily.

 

Well if I do it it will be because I am in a pinch too and cannot find that socket today. If I do find the right socket does anyone know what the torque specs are for it?

 

Fading, I think I read one of your post earlier where you said not to lift the truck and that's what I was going to try. I don't have a lift on the 4runner and with it sitting on the ground should put the axle pretty neutral. How long did it take you to do each side that way?

 

Torque the nut 35ft-lbs. Thats right out of my FSM. It also says to check the bearing has no play, using a spring tension gauge recheck the preload (no idea what/how to do that or what that does)

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I'll definitely check the bearing since I will be that far into it just to make sure that it's in good shape and has no play. In fact, if I can find a socket that size I'll probably just repack the bearing while I'm at it.

 

Ya If you can afford it I'd say just get yourself a marlin crawler bearing kit, new hub dial o rings and call it good. I'm just wrapping up a 5" lift install and whole front end overhaul including control arm bushings, tie rods, etc

 

Wouldn't wish it on anyone. What a PITA

 

Yep, I'm doing bj's, tie rods, pitnam, and idler over the course of the next month. Then, it's new tires and probably helper air bags for the rear. Just did timing belt, water pump, idler pulleys, all new belts, and new front main seal a little while back.

 

I literally did all of that lol. But the engine stuff was on a 3.4 that I swapped in 😜

 

Ya, i've got the 3.0 L motor but it does fine for what I use it for. My mileage isn't too bad either. I can average anywhere between 16 to almost 20 miles per gallon depending on where I'm driving. 16 is usually what I get for city driving during the winter time.

 

Very good!

 

Well, it looks like I'll be using the hammer and punch method. No one has that socket anywhere and I cannot seem to exhibit the patience to order and wait for it!!!

 

Gopher it!

 

I would rather space out changing everything also versus trying to do all that in a weekend. I don't mind wrenching, just don't want to spend a full weekend doing it. Lol I will eventually order that socket as I know that I will need it down the road to change out the other side and also repack bearings.

 

Good plan. I'm 4 weekends into my project. The thing that took the longest were the control arm bushings. I just gotta go to toyota, pick up new tie rods for both sides (they sell the whole assembly with inners and outers already in place makes for a simple and fast installation), do the front bearings, clean and service the hubs and install the rear portion if the lift and I'm done. It's not my DD so I got a little time. Luckily it hasn't got below 40 degrees here this winter so it's been fine.

 

CV axle is now replaced but it wasn't much fun! Most everything came out okay but it did take a little bit to get the old axle out. However, it was nothing compared to getting the new axle in! I ended up having to disconnect the lower ball joint to get it back in as the flanges just barely wouldn't clear the studs on the differential. I used to have a C clamp that would have worked perfect for pushing those bolts out but it mysteriously has disappeared. Said many swear words, some old and some new, and after trying for 40 mins or so decided to disconnect the lower ball joint. From there it was pretty smooth as far as putting everything back together went. Also, I didn't have to take the 54 mm nut off to get the axle out. I just had to take off the clip ring and it slid right out. Greased and torqued everything to spec and no more clicking from the front end anymore! Thanks for the help!