My nightmare came true today.
#4
I'm aware bro but theres this little thing called work. I only paid 1400 for the truck and I get a 10000 bonus on the 25th. Just wondering if I can drive this until then.
#5
All I can do is advise. It gets hot and smokes the head...there goes the bonus. You scald the bearings....the whole thing is done. Steam in the engine is a killer.
Your call. Tow bills suck too.
Your call. Tow bills suck too.
#6
Take the bus bro... you could use a jug of that head gasket fix crap it would be better I guess than just driving and ruining it.
#7
Thats the worst idea I ever heard. That stuff goes up your entire cooling system. BAD idea. Will make much more work when it does go....and it NEVER even works.
Trending Topics
#8
Lux is right. Sideline the truck and find another way to work. It ain't worth ruining the motor trying to make the thing truck you back and forth to work, even if you do get a 10k bonus on the 25th.
Same goes for the quickie head gasket in a bottle. Much, much more trouble than its worth...
Same goes for the quickie head gasket in a bottle. Much, much more trouble than its worth...
Last edited by 250000_yota; Jan 8, 2014 at 02:20 PM.
#9
It wasn't a real solution just maybe better than ruining it lol if it was me I'd do a leak down and fix it take a day off and do what needs to be done. For me a quick fix is doing the HG and skipping bearings...
#11
you've got to park it and fix it....you may want to drive it for two more weeks, but do you really want the bearings running in watery oil......borrow someones car or what ever you have to do but park the truck. Go ahead and start tearing it down, pull the head, TC, and drop that oil pan. Dropping the oil pan is a PITA, but you want all that nasty stuff out of the bottom end. Flushing "may" get it, but removing and cleaning it will be the best method. When you pull the head make sure you resurface it, whether it is warped or not.
...and if the truck has a lot of miles, you may want to rework the head??????
Remember do it once and do it right, spend a little more money doing it right and it will last longer. Toyota OEM head gasket, TC steel guides, Timing chain, tensnioner, possibly a TC cover if that's where the leak is from. depending on miles h2o pump and oil pump, head bolts......
...and if the truck has a lot of miles, you may want to rework the head??????
Remember do it once and do it right, spend a little more money doing it right and it will last longer. Toyota OEM head gasket, TC steel guides, Timing chain, tensnioner, possibly a TC cover if that's where the leak is from. depending on miles h2o pump and oil pump, head bolts......
Last edited by 93 Toyota 4x4; Jan 8, 2014 at 05:06 PM.
#12
James
#13
#14
What does it look like under the valve cover? How much coolant did you have to add? A worn timing chain cover is pretty simple and cheap, it looks like your rig is a 22re so I would check out that route. Or grab a beater Honda until bonus time and toss a rebuilt motor in there.
#15
So to answer a couple of questions:
1. The dipstick looks like this too and is showing way above full mark.
2. My drive is short enough where the truck doesn't even get up to full operating temperature so I'm hoping that will be my saving grace to make it through these 2 weeks.
3. When I said that I'm getting a bonus soon I was simply saying that I already had plans to get a new truck with that and this has just further put that on the plate.
4. My truck has 240k on the clock as well as severe rust issues, windows that won't track correctly, etc. etc. So I'm not really trying to put any more money into a 1400 dollar rig when I could just put my money towards a nicer newer truck.
1. The dipstick looks like this too and is showing way above full mark.
2. My drive is short enough where the truck doesn't even get up to full operating temperature so I'm hoping that will be my saving grace to make it through these 2 weeks.
3. When I said that I'm getting a bonus soon I was simply saying that I already had plans to get a new truck with that and this has just further put that on the plate.
4. My truck has 240k on the clock as well as severe rust issues, windows that won't track correctly, etc. etc. So I'm not really trying to put any more money into a 1400 dollar rig when I could just put my money towards a nicer newer truck.
#16
I say you shouldn't drive it cause things will just get worst but I am willing to bet that if the drive is short enough the rig could last but it would just be killing bearings and such.I had to drive my 4runner 40 miles with a blown hg cause of a break down in theiddle of nowhere without cell service even after we had it towed home I drove it several more times and even tried to blow the damn thing at full throttle but it wouldn't give up. Wound up putting a DOA racing 22re in it and sold it for my 85 the 22re I tried to kill is in my garage still I use it for spare parts and a rebuildable block
#18
#19
Mine doesn't hit full op temp on my run to work either. That means its close enough to walk. Might be freezing balls or otherwise bad enough weather to see a possible NEED to drive, but seriously, running it for two more weeks will harm it. Even if not right away. 5,7,8,10k miles later, you'll lose bearings, rings will be shot, etc. just walk. Unless you absolutely can't. Not warmed up means its what, 5-8 miles?
#20
sounds like you're not going to do anything to the truck and don't want to put more money into it and just want to use it till it dies and be done with the truck...i.e. off to the scrap yard or part out, when your buy a replacement. If you fix it you won't get a good return on the truck, considering time and labor involved in fixing.
So milk it for a couple of weeks..if it makes it..if not oh well...just part it out sooner or sell for scrap.
So milk it for a couple of weeks..if it makes it..if not oh well...just part it out sooner or sell for scrap.
Last edited by 93 Toyota 4x4; Jan 9, 2014 at 11:06 AM.


