1985 pickup with 22r carb. choke stays hot with the ignition off. wiring diagram show choke wire coming from alternator.. does this mean the aternator is bad.. how come the charge lite doesnt come on... how do i fix it

 

Perhaps the contacts in the CMH relay are burnt or stuck closed

The choke heater is powered by the charge fuse and only sees voltage with the ignition on

Then no telling what sort of wiring has been done!!

 

i disconnec`ted the CMH module on the fuse block. that didnt shut the choke down. I changed the alternator , that didnt stop the choke from being hot with the ignition switch off. then i noticed the oil light is just barely glows with ignition off. i disconnected oil pressur switch wire and it went out. is this the emmission control box malfunction.. today im going to disconnect the emmisson control box to see if the choke stops heating

 

I also pulled the 7.5 amp charge fuse on the engine compartment fuse block . that did not stop the voltage to the choke housing.. i have been using a volt meter during all these tests.

 

It could be that some circuit is grounding back into the engine block thus into the choke.

What kind of voltage were you reading ??

just how are you measuring voltage where do you have the test probes??

Do you also have a problem with the battery going dead because of the current draw??

The low oil pressure switch has nothing to do with the emissions system.

 

battery voltage 12.7 vdc. reading at the round plug from carb. i disconnect plug and insert probe to yellow wire. i test the plug end from the main wire harness. yes it will drain the battery if i leave the plug connected. i disconnected the ignition switch , the emmission box, the main fuses in the engine compartment except the main fused , i could not get it out.

 

im looking at a wire diagram and the 15 amp engine fuse is energising the combination meter , this has the oil light in it . when the engine stops the sending unit closes to ground. some how power is still getting to the combination meter on the dash the 4x4 lite was on too untill i took it out of 4x4.. some how the power must be getting to this 15 amp engine circuit after the ignition swith is turned off. and is some how bleeding back to the choke housing. the only way is by a faulty ignition switch. that didnt stop any voltage at the choke plug when i disconnected the ignition switch.

 

If you disconnected the ignition switch it was in the off position .

I have been using a switch disconnected in my fire wood truck for years I use a screw driver.

That would mean someplace you have a wire hooked into that circuit that should not be which I am sure you have figured that out.

Any added wiring extra lights , stereo things removed but not disconnected in a correct manner

Check if the 15Amp engine fuse has voltage at all times.It should only with the key on

This feeds the 7.5 amp charge fuse that powers the choke heater which also should only have voltage with the key on.

Now I don`t have the EWD for 85 so I am looking at 86(might be different) one place this can happen is the plug on the alternator .

as the white wire always has battery voltage if this contacts the yellow wire it will power the 7.5 amp charge fuse at all times causing your problem

then the red wire in the same plug does connect to the 15amp engine fuse

I would look real hard at the plug and as much of the harness from that plug for signs of rubbing or melting .

From reading all your info this is where your problem is I would bet

I white wire battery voltage at all times feeding the 15amp engine fuse and 7.5 amp charge fuse.

Even with the plug removed from the Alternator you will still have the problem.

Is anything else electrical not working correct ??

 

found yellow choke wire melted to the green horn/ flasher wire, in the fuse box in the engine compartment. still have the problem with the red wire from the alternator being hot all the time with the ignition switch off. and powering the engine fuse . which powers the dash meters. hence the oil light stays on after the ignition is turned off. ill take off the alternator and have it tested ..ill look at the plug when i do that.. thanks all

 

Have you made any head way??

 

I further found the alternator bad. it was alowing the red wire from it, to the engine fuse , to be energized all the time. this was providing power to the dash meters . the oil ligt was red when the engine was off. and the 4x4 light remained lit, if it was engaged and the ignition was off. no more drained batterys. now how come my carb doesnt give me a full squirt. on accelerator pum p.. I rebuit it but wasnt able to get the plastic cover off the check ball.. is that the problem.. also why is there a vacume pot at the oposite end of the accelerator pump.