1992 Pickup 22re auto

I intended to adjust my valves. Got the valve cover off then went to crank to TDC. It is REALLY difficult to crank by hand. No cheater bar, just the ratchet itself, its possible to turn but meets a lot of resistance. Moves somewhat freely at a point then gets near impossible to turn again. I dont want to force it so stopped. All four spark plugs are removed, its in park. Am I forgetting something?

The truck was running fine prior to doing this but a little rough and underpowered. It had a new block and rebuild 8000 miles ago by previous owner

I notice the belts are really tight, could that do it? I tried adjusting them but the adjuster screw backs out but the pulley does not move. Whats up with that?


Sigh

 

there should be a belt deflection spec for measuring how tight the belts are, check that first.

which direction are you turning the engine? the same direction that it runs?

 

Turning clockwise, yes

 

did you pull the distributor during this period? or loosen/tighten anything other than the belt? such a bizarre problem...

I don't have any 22re auto trans experience, but i'd be hard pressed to see how it could cause this.

 

On the belts that use a bolt to set tension, you need to loosen the pulley bolt by half a turn or so, then when loosening the tension bolt, it will slide out of tension. Make sense? It's the bolt in the center of the pulley.

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Did not pull the distributor. Just pulled the valve cover and plugs.

Thank you for the pulley explanation; makes a lot of sense now.

Tomorrow I'm going to pull all the belts off and see if that makes any difference

 

It is kinda weird, now that I think about it. I can roll mine over with a 1/2 ratchet, slowly, with plugs in. Just have to let the pressure drop before rolling over TDC on the compressing cylinder(s). Is it not supposed to be that way? I never bother pulling plugs, unless I'm checking them or replacing them.

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Well I loosened the belts and that made it a little easier to turn but still difficult (all the pulley bearings spun fine). I pushed harder and got it to turn to TDC and did the valves. One was way off but the rest were good.

Maybe its harder to turn than Im used to because of the new piston rings? Maybe the shop installed the wrong size something? Seems like if theres that much resistance its robbing power

 

Or it could mean you now have awesome compression now, making it hard to compress the air by hand!

 

No compression, plugs were pulled

 

Sounds like piston to cyldiner wall clearance too tight.

Not a good thing but if the engine has run 8,000 miles like this then you may be ok.

>_<

Sometimes if piston to cyldiner wall clearance is too tight when the engine warms up it will actually seize.

But obviously there is a resistance factor somewhere in the engine.