So I changed my spark plugs...
Mar 8, 2013 | 05:43 PM
#1
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So I changed my spark plugs...
So I changed my spark plugs after only having my 94 toyota 3.0 (3vze) v6 for a little over a week. It ran just fine prior to me doing so. I checked and feel really confident in saying that I KNOW the gap is set to .031. The OLD spark plugs were all either set to or blown out to .4/.41 yet I saw no problems in misfiring or low/high idling..(odd)Immediately after changing them I turned the engine over to test the finished product... Initially I was satisfied with the results...that rapidly changed. My idle was sitting at around 1.2k (usually at 2k...it HAS been kinda cold though) And I know that the idle is supposed to sit at 800 rpm. Anyways, after letting it sit about 15 seconds I noticed the idle began jumping.
After seeing this I reved the engine. It felt as though the engine would miss only when beginning to push the pedal down. Once past the intial press of the pedal the miss practically disappeared. ONE thing is certain...I did something wrong. So now the question is what?
My hunch is that the far back spark plug passenger side perhaps isn't all the way in... (I had MUCH difficulty getting in that tight spot) do these symptoms sound relevant to a spark plug not being fully fastened into the socket? If not, where do you think I should look?
Mar 8, 2013 | 06:14 PM
#2
Did you change the plugs one at a time, eg no chance you put a boot/cable back in the wrong spot? You can do a "power balance test", pull the spark plugs wires one at a time the one that makes no difference is the bad one.
Mar 8, 2013 | 07:42 PM
#5
Sorry wasn't paying full attention maybe. Cold is a relative term and I have no idea where you're living. I don't think ambient temp ever gets high enough for mine to not do the cold idle. It should idle high when the engine is cold, but doesn't normally fluctuate.
You should check and make sure you didn't knock any vacuum lines loose or posibly swap any of them if you had to remove some to get at the spark plugs.
There is a full flow chart for trouble shooting, in the engine section of the FSM.
You should check and make sure you didn't knock any vacuum lines loose or posibly swap any of them if you had to remove some to get at the spark plugs.
There is a full flow chart for trouble shooting, in the engine section of the FSM.
Mar 9, 2013 | 09:10 AM
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Just an update. I went out this morning and did that power check. As far as I could tell all valves had proper power. But looking into the issue further I found some vacuum hoses not ENTIRELY in place. Anyways, it seemed pushing those vacuum hoses in tighter fixed the problem. thanks everyone for the help! Very much appreciated.
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Mar 26, 2013 | 10:27 AM
#8
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From: harrisonburg, va
I kinda have the same issue. seems as though once i did a knock sensor fix and then put new plugs in and reset the distributor timing, seems the ol 3.0 doesnt like what i did, ran like a turd before, runs like a turd now with slightly more power ergo the knock sensor fix.. pullin my damn hair out tryin to fix this machine... Any ideas on what could be that issue.. PS i would start a new thread but the newbie rules still apply.. go figure.
Mar 26, 2013 | 11:45 AM
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Check for arching plug wires, ensure the ends of the wires are actually attched to the wire itself (they come apart fairly often, especially on sub par wires), check/change you're cap and rotor, ensure vaccum hoses are seated, and in good condition.
Just some thoughts.
Just some thoughts.
Mar 27, 2013 | 03:56 PM
#11
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From: harrisonburg, va
NGK is what i installed. That was the dealer recommended plug. I kinda got the issue with mine semi-solved. Did some air/mix and idle adjustments. Seemed to calm it down but I think a lot of the miss is coming from outta tune valves. Need serious adjusting on the driver side.
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