So i just spent the last 2 days pulling my hair our kicking and screaming trying to chase down an electrical demon... or so i thought.

Purchased Brand new Optima Yellow top from local parts store. I run 2 in the 84 Diesel Yota P/U I have here and they have been fantastic.

If you put it into a 22re equipped rig It may or may not work for you... Me unfortunately it did not work... Just didn't have enough oomph to get my system fired up like it needed to be. note that if you have dual optima yellow tops, it will effectively boost your amperage up and will work for the 22re equipped rig. If your sticking single go with a lead acid battery...end rant

 

CCA dont lie, its a battery. Theres somthing else going on there. An optima battery's CA are just that, rated Cranking amps, doesnt matter what color it is. I think you have more to learn before you make claims like that.

 

I think you need to learn a little bit more... i used 3 different optima yellow tops. none of them are strong enough. they only push 750 CA where as the lead acid pumps 800. I will continue to believe what i have physically tested myself and have seen with my own eyes. You can't sit and tell me that all 3 batteries are "broken" especially when the other two have been in the diesel for 6+ months. I also never said it's going to be the same for everyone it just simply doesn't work for my application and the thread is here in case someone else comes along with the same problem, i like to think i can save someone some time and hassle by posting this, If you think you have a better idea that's great they're all just ideas.

 

Umm... yeah, okay.
How about defining what "CA" is before you bash a battery?

 

How about the difference between CA and CCA?

I'm confused, whats the problem with the battery? As far as I can tell its not that the battery is the problem...its that you failed to realize how many CCA you would need to start your engine...but maybe I'm reading something wrong, there isn't much onfo in the post. Will it not start with 750 but will start with 800?

 

And maybe you should note that the charging requirements for the yellow-top and red-top batteries aren't the same?

 

Let's over-simplify this a tad....
yellow-top = deep cycle
red - top = automotive

2 yellow-tops in a diesel (parallel, right?) works fine
1 yellow-top in a gasoline fails
parallel batteries = double the cranking amps
so the diesel is getting twice the CA than the gas engine does, and the gas engine probably needs nearly the same amp

I'm just going to finish this with:
would you put a Marine battery in your car or tractor?

 

whos bashing the battery? i just said i run 2 in my diesel yota without problems... all i said is that it does not work for my 4 cyl gas engine... never once said it was a bad battery... think people need to get their facts straight and not take stuff out of context. This is supposed to be a heads up for people thinking of putting a yellow top optima in their rig to check to see if their rig can use it or not so that they don't spend the day trying to figure out why it doesn't work, but instead people think I'm bashing on optima batteries when I'm not.

 

Well, you run 2 yellows in your tractor, which obviously has very different requirements than a 22re... and then say you can't run a single yellow in a 22re.

2 yellows in parallel will provide approximately as much CA as a single red, if not more even, but one yellow on its own provides far less CA when compared to a single red so it's no wonder it doesn't work.

As I said above- the yellow is roughly equivalent to a deep-cycle battery whereas the red is roughly equivalent to the typical automotive battery.

Rocket science not required.

 

I did , works really gooded and its blue to match my paint


I think you missed what abe said, eh. You have TWICE the volume cranking your diesel. If my buddy can start his FJ-60 3F straight six up with a yellow top then you should be able to as well I'd think......

 

 

Which part? It's been a long day....

 

and to clarify, there are different models of yellow top optimas available. Some have 1100cca some have 620cca. And they are a lead acid battery as well, and contain the same acid. They just don't go, "sloosh sloosh" when you carry them.

 

That's nice to know.

There are also different types of Group 24 batteries as well, and they are all lead acid and contain the same acid as any other lead-acid battery. And some of them go "sloosh sloosh" and some don't.

Your point?

 

Unless you're ready to tell me that some of them shouldn't be charged above X volts and some shouldn't be charged above Y volts.......

 

And you had better be prepared to tell me the initial charge rate, float and equalize rates, and the voltage for each.

 

I ran a Yellow Top in my 22RE equipped 4Runner with no issues, period. Part # YEL34/78. The Yellow Top is a dual purpose battery, as in it can be run and charged just like a normal automotive battery, or used as a deep cycle. I preferred the Yellow over the Red, only because I had a winch, and wanted the deep cycle option. Just my opinion/experience. I've had several vehicles with different Red and Yellow Top Optima's.

 

I have one yellow top that starts my 3.4v6 no prob. surpasses CCA needed.

I can blast my stereo for about 3 hours and still start.

JUST AN FYI I have heard OPTIMA batteries are not as good as they used to be. I think they are made in china now, and someone told me they changed their design to save money.

 

http://www.optimabatteries.com/us/en...cts/yellowtop/

 

I have a 3vze and heavy duty in Canada is listed at 550cca (from memory). In my 1993 there is a blue Optima marine battery and zero problems, even done to -40C (-40F) not plugged it starts. But then it dies because the VAFM is stuck closed. Girlfriend has slightly smaller battery (cca size) that is all black and grey from Canadian Tire store, looks just like an Optima. It also starts when cold but also dies from stuck VAFM door (plugged in starts easier, but stupid door is stuck).

So to keep it running work gas pedal slightly until RPM picks up, without flooding it. You will now the the door opens as the cold turd comes to life. Once RPM has stabilzed your good to go.

Girlfriend has killed her battery at least a dozen times, half of it in the winter. I mean dead, less than 6 volts, once down to +3.97 volts. 2 amp trickle charge seams to work good but takes a long time or boast it.

Yes Optima is not as good as they used to be, moved production to Mexico but more important one of the large battery companies bought them out. If you cannot bet them; buy them out, close up shop or produce an inferior product for the same price.

My first red top Optima lasted two trucks and never missed a beat. Kill it in the summer, turn off lights wait 2 hours and start. It took a deer hitting the front of my truck to put a hole in battery. Should have glued it up because it still worked.

Hard starting with a good battery usually means a bad connection or corroded cables. Had that on a AMC hornet, battery was good eveything measured fine. Was really annoyed until an old mechanic said change all lines to starter and ground with heavy duty cables. Worked great, cable to starter relay and starter measured fine when inside warm, but when I cut them open bad news. Corrision everywhere and means lots of corrision on every strand.

Hans