Hey guys,

OK - This one rested for a while, but after putting in new shoes and spring kit, I've got my parking brake stuff freed up. I managed to gain a bunch of room on the rear cable adjuster (don't ask how, it must've been magic...). Not 100% sure the rear cable is ok, but the front one is new. Here's the question:

How far out should the bellcranks come before the parking brake engages?

The way I have it set now, they come darn near to the "click" of the adjuster when you put the P brake on (limit of travel), and don't go back toward that backing plate much when the brake is released. Just wondering if that will wear my shoes excessively or anything? Or do I need to adjust the cable more, to have them 'rest' closer to the backing plate, and roll out the shoes more?
At rest, the cable is mildly taut, and rear cable is at the limit of its adjustment....I have to pull it all the way out to make it engage. The equalizer is pretty easy to move (cleaned and anti-seized).
Hope this makes sense.

Thanks!

~Mike

 

There should be very little play in the cable when released . The service manuals say adjust all the tension out with the bolts at the bell crank then back off 1 full turn and tighten the lock nut.

As long as you have no drag with the e-Brake released you should be fine as long as it holds the vehicle on grade

To loose of an adjustment is harder on shoe wear as then only the top portions of the shoe are going against the drum.

With them adjusted correct more of the shoe is pressed against the drum as pressure is applied because the adjuster is opening as the E-brake is used.


Now if the shoes are not adjusted or the drums are shot or the rear cable is stretched to far it all needs to fixed or replaced.

If you have been driving with no E-brake for a few thousand miles you will need to adjust your rear shoes as they are only adjusted by the use of a adjusted E-brake.

Your E- brake should be holding fully engaged by about 1/2 of the handle travel. Like all else I can`t find the number of clicks when needed.

 

Thanks, Wyoming.

Yeah, I have a little drag on the driver's side (too much), but the pass side is fine. If I back things off at the middle section (front of rear cable), then I get no P brake. The dragging driver's side bellcrank doesn't seem to want to "return" when you let off the handle (altho the slack is there). Might have dust built up in there now.

Think I'd better put it up on jack stands, had a look, and try to do it right. Seems like it's the deal where you have to play with one thing, that throws another out, back and forth! Easier if the tires are off, I think (star wheels, adjusting the crank bolts etc).

Pretty bad when the E brake is 10x more complicated/sensitive than doing the actual brakes, lol!

 

One of those things I have been doing them so long i don`t pay much attention.

Speaking of E-brakes i just had a front cable break oh joy!!

I find for me the easy way is adjust the brake shoes up till there is just a slight drag.

Pump the pedal a few times check the drag again it sometimes changes with new shoes.

Adjust the cable up your good to go.