94 3.0 failed smog test and due to a bad compression gauge the fact #3 cylinder was very low on compression was missed.
I started the tear down last night this will be a very budget job
I ordered a gasket set and head bolts off evil bay at my door for 155.00(I hope) all the local jobbers wanted almost 400 for gaskets alone.
will be checking out the head and curently hoping I can replace just the bad valve.
the plan is to not disturb the driver side head other than valve cover gasket.
the FSM in on my laptop for reference and I have you people too.
after last nights attack on the engine I have the rad out the top hat off . today I will start by attacking the timming belt and start looking at what is needed to remove the rest of items for head pull .
by the looks of my timing belt I think i will have to do the idle bearings also but might be wrong it could be the belt tension and the old belt
so here we go let the games comence

 

i would go ahead and replace the timing belt and pulleys since ur right there messing with it. i know its more money but its also peace of mind. and you will regret having to tear it all back aparrt again in a few months.... let us know about the valves. post pics and good luck

 

ok anyone have a fix for the injector plugs I have a few when I released then the little latch broke. brittle plastic

the blet will be changed for sure the pulleys seem to be in good shape now that the belt is off they don't seem to have slop or make noise

 

Next issue the nut in the water housing at rear of intake is striped (yes the one in the hole)

 

Take a look at the bad plug...it should have a 5 digit number on it. Now, prefix that number with 90980-xxxxx (xxxxx being the number on the plug) and you should be able to order just the plug from the dealer.

There is a tutorial here or on ttora someplace that shows how to remove the wires from the Toyota plugs.

Possibly here too:
http://www.connectorsfast.com/default.html

 

ok so spent the day on the toy the head is off there will be pictures later. what I found along the way besides the injector plugs was that there is a few pieces missing from the thrust area of the cam buy the looks of it it's been like that for some time as the metal is oil soaked. I will also need the hose from the valve cover to the hat.

what I found once head was off the #3 ex shim (between cam and valve) has fair bit of indent. if you look at #3 ex valve it seems to be sunk in the seat.I will have to find a spring compressor to remove the valve to look closer

I hope I don't for get how it goes by the time the parts show up to go back in . Like I said I will get some photos posted soon

 

if u ordered head gaskets off ebay... unless there the factory ones send them back or cancel ur order... i used a set off ebay and they where trash, less then 5,000 and had a leak and had to replace, just spend the money and get toyota ones, just my feelings, as for pulling the valves out, i take a socket deep one and hit it with a hammer over the valve retainer clips size of the washer, it will let the clips pop out and not have to use a spring compressor, might take a couple hits but it will do it, since u are going this far u might want to just pull the other head and have valves cut and redo all the clearances on them, then u know u will have good top end for sometime.

 

x2 ^^^ might as well do both sides and get quality headgaskets. there have been cases of hg's being flipped and upside down from ebay suppliers

 

ok here is some photos of the last days tear down







this is the hose I need to find

 

Hose, Ventilation
http://www.utoyot8.com/Picture.aspx?...ccode=&ppName=

http://www.toyotapartseast.com/Page_...3497,3508,3515

 

looks like its time for some new cams.. sorry man. and since ur there might as well do the exhaust crossover elimination mod. look it up there are several threads about it. good luck getting it back together

 

sorry no cross over mod here not for now need to get motor back together and smog test before I do any more mods

 

I'd like to see a pic of that shim with an indent. I've never seen, or even heard of, that before. Anyway, that's not going to be why the compression is low. That might be because the exhaust valve and valve seat are worn. Or it might not. I guess you'll find out...

About that camshaft, that's a pretty common occurance. Mine was like that when I bought it too. And so are a lot of other folks. But, I never once heard of it causing any issues to run it like that. As I, and many others, have/do.

For new fuel injector connectors...

Sorry to hear about those ebay head gaskets. You'll probably be regretting that, if you choose to use them...depending on who made them.

PS, don't just work on one head, or one cylinder. Whatever you do to one cylinder, and/or cylinder head, should be done to all cylinders/cylinder heads. That is proper engine building methodology. The goal being to achieve, or maintain, an even balance in performance between all the engine's cylinders. This will result in optimal engine performance and durability.

 

I need one of these and what does it do

this is the dimple in the shim

 

That unidentified part on the water bypass is a thermal vacuum valve. See this thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...d-help-238900/

I did the same thing but instead of replacing it I epoxied some barbed ends from a drip watering connector to the broken off holes. Worked great. Saw that idea here on Yotatech too.

 

BVSV, a.k.a. TVV

23262 BIMETAL VACUUM SWITCHING VALVE, NO.1 90925-05047

It's for the EVAP system.
WOW!

Next question is: What's that cam lobe base circle look like. I imagine there was absolutely NO clearance between it and the shim for awhile, for that to happen.

There should NOT be ANY wear on the cam lobe base circle. And, I hate to have to tell you this. But, if there is, that camshaft is toast. Because you won't be able to accurately shim/clearance the valve if the base circle is worn AT ALL.

Sorry...

 

Are the shims removable from the shell

 

Yes, though they do tend to become hydraulically "locked" into the bucket tappets when they have oil underneath of them.

But, with a suitable picking/prying tool, they can be "popped" out fairly easily. That's what those 2 notches are for.

 

I have been looking for the thread on injector plug replacement . I would like to use new plastics and just change them . I do not like the idea of a cut and splice

 

Umm...why do you need to find the thread? I just showed you where to buy them...that's a link you know? Click it!
What you would be buying from them requires no cutting and/or splicing to install. They are just the connector(s) and seal(s). To replace them you simply push/pull the terminal(s) out of the old connector(s). Which will require a suitable picking/prying tool as well. Then, with the wire(s) still attached to the terminal(s), insert the terminal(s) into the new connector(s). Done.