After doing a few hard climbs up a really hard section of a trail i started to hear noises comming from what i thought was my front left axel i took it too the place that replaced my axel the last time i broke it and they told me that both of the axels were good and that i have a problem with my diff and that was the noise that i was hearing, i want to replace the diff and im thinking of doing it myself but i honestly have no idea what im getting myself into, in just curious would it be cheaper to just have the current diff fixed or just replace it? And if i replace it how hard will the job be? And how time consuming wll it be? And help or advice will be apreaceated thanks

Video of the noise:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp6zqbKn0n4

 

Id vote for getting one from a bone yard and just oulling and putting and then rebuilding your broke one later. If you search gearing/installing new gears that thread has a step by step for pulling both front and rear diffs.

 

sounds like you did this

it happens, get a used diff. do you have a 4runner or pickup? find a diff of course with matching gears it will take a few hours if you somewhat know what youre doing. ive done it a few times the longest time it took me 11 hours but thats when everything went wrong and i was also putting in a locker.
you can find used diff for about 100 bucks on here or cl good luck

 

Just driving it in 4lo on pavement will break stuff...stop it. Time to hit up a junkyard or the classifieds. Swapping diffs is easy, just make sure you get the right gear ratio and find out if you have an ADD diff or not.

Username is s2_4Runner, video title says 4runner...if I had to guess, I'd say it's a 4runner.

 

Thanks, how do i find out if i have a ADD diff?

 

Non ADD diff (top) and ADD axle tube (bottom):



Diff with ADD axle tube installed:

 

ahah wow howd i miss that well it being 95 i was wondering if it had 488s

 

do you have manual or auto hubs?
auto is add manual is non add

 

Unless a previous owner put manual hubs on it and left the ADD system intact.

 

The easiest way to tell if you have add or manual is like BMcEL showed, which is to just look at your tube off your diff.

As far as changing the diff yourself, it is extremely straight forward, and if you grab the correct diff from a bone yard (which you can easily tell if it is the correct diff by reading the code on the reading the vin plate on the door jam of the drivers door) Then you can unbolt your CV's and drive shaft, then unbolt the two top bolts that hold the diff up to your frame and the one large bolt on your front cross member and simply remove the entire unit and plop in the new one!
It will be cake when you look under there and see how simple it really is.

Here is a good write up on how to read the VIN code:
http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

Hope that helps some!

 

They are auto hubs i found a mechanic down the street and he just happends to own a 4runner 4x4 like mine, he said he will swap diff for me for 250, is that a good price? Or should i do it myself?

 

Do it yourself. I am learning too and I discovered its not that hard.

BMCeL, to get rid of the add do I just swap out the axle tube? I am about to swap my front diff and I have a parts truck 1st Gen no add truck. I have not found a write up on it yet, just the clamp and cap mod.

 

It will be stronger if you swap tubes, but not by much and it's not necessary. More info:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

 

Yeah that is the mod I'm talking about. Thing is when I get home from the mine I have to complete my regearing job by pulling the front diff. As I happen to have a parts truck without add I thought it might be nice to swap it into mine. There is no write up on the job like the add elimination you linked.

In fact that link is what led me to gearing and my 35,s! When I pulled the drain plug bits of ring teeth came out and the gear oil was pretty, it sparkled and had a nice silver sheen to it.

Made a nice justification to the wife and my tyres where ready to be replaced. I sighted safety concerns and now I have 35's, rear locker and 5.29's. She doesn't like being stuck for hours so another small win there. Next I happened to get a parts truck 1st Gen with my engine tranny and transfer case for $150. My buddy has a 1st Gen so we split it so we have lots of spares for $75 each. Score.


Anyway my point, ADD elimination could also be done by simply swapping the axle tube and pulling the vacuum lines or is there more to it?

Thanks for your help as usual bro. I expect to do some big road trips in this rig and if I end up your way I'll buy you a beer. The wife is Aussie and wants to see everything and Oregon is beautiful.

 

Pretty straight forward...just replace the oil seal (below) and use the non-ADD bolts when installing the tube to the housing. Then all the vacuum crap can come off.



Oregon is a pretty awesome place. And I'm always open to free beer!

 

Auto hubs are NOT ADD.
You don't have auto hubs on a 95 model.
You have drive flanges or manual hubs.

:wabbit2:

 

I did not know that about the oil seal... I wonder if they are already installed in my new diff from ECGS? I'll have to wait until Wednesday when I fly back from the mine to find out I suppose. I hope they are, I really wanted to test out the new gears, locker and tyres.

Is that seal also called an oil slinger? I had them install the following kit.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-151...it-master.html

 

I cant find any used front diffs, you guys know of anywhere else i could find one?

 

Where have you been looking? They are all over the internet. You could also head to the wrecker yard. I now have two spares without even really trying.

You could also go find a beat to hell parts rig and have a spare of almost everything. As long as you are willing to refurbish that is.

 

http://www.car-part.com/

Sort by distance...I bet you find one nearby.