For months I searched on this topic, found a few starter threads but nothing that actually went into real detail. so I plan on posting a step by step in detailed 5 speed conversion that I am doing on my 1990 v6 runner.

I ordered everything I needed ( some still in shipping ) from Caveman Auto parts in Or 550$ for everything shipped.

trans & xfer case
master & slave
crossmemeber
pedal ass.
driveline
flywheel
2 hardlines

I installed the manual pedal assembly with no mods (pics shown). all you pretty much have to do is mark and center punch the 3 cutouts on the automatic pedal assembly for the master cyliner. I used a hole saw for the bigger one. the 12 mm studs only have to be drilled to the size of the stud not the big washer looking things to the back of the studs ( I made mine to big but just used rubber and metal washer)
I will keep posting progress and pictures along the way.

 

pedals installed

 

Been awile, had quite the fiasco getting all the parts needed from this parts yard but finally got them all and got back to work, everyhting seemed to be pretty st8 forward as far as the install, running the hard line underneath the brake booster under the steering rod was more of a pain then putting the trans in IMO. but thats the route i took was under those two things listed up and over almost motor height on the firewall ( there are plastic holders on the firewall to hold the line in place, back down the passenger side to its obvious place. the 5 speed driveline that was sent was to short so I ended up using my automatic driveline, also the original automatic cross member works as well, bell housing are the same so the original trans bolts work as well as the dust cover.

Ecu also was not swapped out there was a bit of wiring to get the rig to start. A340E trans have a white plug that goes to the NSS and grey plug for the A340H bolt are pretty much the same plug they will have 2 "fatter" black wires next to each other. you can either make a jumper wire with male ends and connect the two wires at the plug ( which will allow the car to start the car without the clutch being pushed in ( not the safest route) or you can cut the 2 wires run wire up into the cab run it to the plug on the clutch cut the plug and wire it there ( allowing you to only start it with the clutch engaged)

 

Looks good!

 

Hey so I'm in the middle or close to done on my swap with a 95. But a concern I have now is the clutch pedal, when I push it in (spring is in correct, and attached to master) it as resistance but then hits a point where the spring pushes it against the floor.... I was wondering if you experienced that? I don't have any hydronic pressure in the lines yet, so when I get the clutch fluid in and built up pressure will that help the clutch pedal come back out?

 

Yes, you will have nothing at all untill the lines get some fluid in them. untill then the pedal will just hit the flooor and stay there