My engine swap ('03 Tacoma 3.4L, 5-Speed - to - '95 4Runner, Automatic) is almost done. Everything is wired up and it turns over, but won't fire!

I read somewhere that ORS said, if the check engine light does not come on, there is something wrong with the ecm or fuse. I believe the fuses are all good, however, when I turn the key to on, the rear anti lock and brake lights come on on the dash, not the check engine light. I followed Evolta's and dntsdad's 3.4 Swap 101 tread to exactness, (besides the wiring, in which I did with EWD's for my specific years). Is there a way to test the ecm to make sure it is still functioning correctly?

I'm just looking for some suggestions as to where we went wrong. Wiring has been looked over countless times, and it comes up the same each time. The only thing left out so far was the OBDII stuff, but I wouldn't think that would prevent firing. Could faulty emission stuff cause it not to fire? Really stumped here.

 

Check for voltage at the BATT and B+ terminals. They should have 12v+

Check that the EFI relay is clicking. Its in the fuse box on the passenger side.

There should have been a white/red wire in the kickpanel that was the feed from the EFI fuse and relay that got hooked to the white/blue wire on the 3.4 harness

 

I have 12+ at the BATT and B+. The EFI Fuse does click. My Blue White wire goes from 22 E5 to 23 IH1, which then goes to Green Yellow.
What connector does the White Red wire come from?

 

I mean White Blue, not Blue White.

 

Not sure I dont have anything in front of me but it should be there. Your B/w is going to a green/yellow??? that sounds wrong.......off the top of my head the only thing I remember being green/yellow is the COR (fuel pump relay wire).

I think that you have something crossed incorrectly

 

White Blue goes to Green Yellow. I wrote that backwards.

 

make sure you have the MIL wire (check engine light) wired correctly the light should come on when you turn the ignition to run then go off once the engine starts

 

My Tacoma EWD says 2-E5 is MIL, and 4Runner says 3-IH1. So it is hooked up.

 

UPDATE! I got my check engine light to come on, finally. 1-E5 white red wasnt hooked up to 16-IH1 white red. But, she still wont fire. Any ideas? I have heard my truck was a drive by wire by some, but at the same time was told thats its not. It only has 1 cable at the throttle body, I've heard thats means dbw. Is this correct? And if so, how do you go around hooking it up?

 

03 is drive by wire make sure all white/red are hooked up to switched power... There's only one more wire you have to hook up on drive by wire its the etcs electronic throttle control system... but you dont need it hooked up to make it fire ... did you check for spark yet? take one of the plugs out and make sure you have spark. After that make sure you have the cor hooked up correctly for your fuel pump to run

 

Today is a good day, it FIRED! Best feeling in the world. Its dark here so I will try and do the dbw tomorrow after school.

 

Hey, that's not fair! You gotta tell us what you fixed to make it run Pics and videos are appreciated. Congrats!

 

Would the electric throttle control system be called "Throttle Control Motor T7" on my EWD?

As for the thing that fired it, my IGSW 15-E5 wasnt connected to the starter. As well as the white red wire I mentioned a few posts back.

 

So, I have read about this pink wire that needs to be hooked up in order for the ects to work. Where is this pink wire? I have a hot pink wire at 8-E5 that is not connected, and a dull pink wire that was fed through from the engine. Are either of these the correct pink wires? And if so, which one and where does it get hooked up to? I also have a white red wire from the 4runner body, does this get hooked up? If so, where to?
Thanks.

 

Now I have a new problem, or maybe it is still dealing with the DBW. Once I start the 4Runner, it runs great. But, when I push the gas, it bogs at 2000rpm. After its been running, it bogs and dies if I touch the gas. Any info?

 

Are you sure that the fuel pump came on?.....If you just use 12V and touch the Lavender wire at the relay, you should hear the fuel pump comes on.

The FC should go to pin 23 of IE1.

 

So, it has been figured out! The drive by wire system, needs 1 wire to be hooked up to make your engine run perfectly. E5 pin 8. This is a pink wire, more like hot pink. I just ran it straight to the battery to try it out, and my truck drives how it is supposed to. No more bogging down at 2000rpm's. But, I was told to run it to a 15amp fuse, then to the battery. So, tomorrow that is what I'm gonna do.

 

New question! I have been reading everywhere and found a lot of information, but I'm not getting my answer.

My OBD2 port will not communicate with my reader. I have tried two separate readers and still nothing.

My wires are pinned as follows:
Pin 4-Ground-Done
Pin 5-Ground-Done
Pin 6-Center Air Bag-No
Pin 7-SIL To: SIL Pin 14-E5-Done
Pin 13-TC To: TC Pin 7-E7-Done
Pin 14-ABS Actuator-No
Pin 15-WSFE To: WSFE Pin 13-E5-Done
Pin 16-BAT To: 7.5 Amp Fuse-Done

Any information? My check Engine Light is not on, but I still want to be able to check.

Thanks.

 

I have 96 ECU and I just use 4, 5 7 and 16. Didn't use anything else.

 

That's what I started with, 4, 5, 7, 16. But since that didn't work, I thought maybe some others had to be plugged in as well.