I know, there are quite a few of these out there. I have read all of the ones that seem to be the same issue as mine.

Problem is that they are not as far as I can tell, as of the moment that is.

My major question is, how long should it take for the BVSV to apply vacum to the choke opener diaphram?

I can let it sit at the high idle for a very long time (10 min plus), but it takes getting it far to hot (in my opinion) to get it to where there is suction from the BVSV valve that disengages the fast idle cam. My choke coil could be out of wack, but I left it the same as it was and it worked great then.

This is the second time I have rebuilt this carb (this time was mostly cleaning out a bunch of debris that was causing problems) and haven't had any issue with the choke/high idle until now.

The problem is easily fixed by manually pushing down on the fast idle cam, and after diven for a resonable time (5 min after being already quite warm) to get it to complete operating temperature it all works fine.

I messed up and actually removed the bolt that goes through the choke linkage, choke opener diaphram, and fast idle cam. Best I can tell off of the highly generalized diagrams in the FSM I have it back together right. Anyone have detailed pictures of the linkage?

Sorry for being so long winded, but I am trying to be as detailed as possible.

Thank you for any help or other suggestions you may have,

LTC

 

Totally feelin' ya, bud. I've got the exact same problem. From what I can tell with the carb off it appears the diaphram will only pull back to the first step of the fast idle cam. It really seems like the throttle should be able to go past the first step and off the cam so that the butterfly will close completely if the adjuster screw is backed all the way out. However, I can't find any way to get the linkage into this mode without just pushing it with my finger. At this point I'm strongly considering removing the fast idle cam linkage and replacing it's linkage to the choke plate with a small spring.

I'll try to get some photos snapped before I put it back on the truck.

 

Thanks, I am going to start robbing parts off of another truck that I have that is broken down. If those don't work, I will probably just start buying new and see what happens. Only problem with that idea is that the parts truck is 400 miles away.

 

Here's some photos of the linkage. Hope these are still useful.
http://resin.g-cipher.net/gdata/res/...3238fe928f.jpg
http://resin.g-cipher.net/gdata/res/...87fb080e0a.jpg
http://resin.g-cipher.net/gdata/res/...1dce95bb0f.jpg
I suspect mine may be missing some small shims, but I think you get the idea.

Here's my solution, which seems to work fine (shown with choke assy removed):
http://resin.g-cipher.net/gdata/res/...3f8d0eafae.jpg

Here's a couple bench test shots:
http://resin.g-cipher.net/gdata/res/...b8b01aee56.jpg
http://resin.g-cipher.net/gdata/res/...40eadd29d6.jpg
Now the start-up procedure requires keeping one's foot on the gas for a minute. A small price to pay for the smiting of one's enemies.

Current problem: it fails the CA smog test. Gross polluter they say. Turns out this thing has a closed loop emissions system with a cat and everything. There's an EGO sensor that feeds a computer, which operates an air bypass valve, which is currently stuffed full of fail and misery. I think this is the part where I replace the $400 Aisin electronic air control valve with a $50 Bosch idle air control valve from an old Volvo.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the help.

I actually got a chance to get to my parts truck, and have robbed a few parts off of it (including the carb) in hopes that I can get the truck running properly again.

If the stock parts don't work, you can bet that I will probably try your route.

Thanks again.