Hey guys,


This is my first post and I'm new to the site. I have a '92 22re Pickup 2WD. I'd like to turn it into somewhat of a street racer. I still need to haul dirt bikes, etc. and my girlfriend needs to be somewhat comfy on the inside. I wanted to change out the clutch and the flywheel since it seems as though the latter is going (little bit of chatter when changing gears with low revs). Regardless of what is causing the problem I want to put a new clutch kit complete with flywheel and I'd like to have somewhat sturdy/race grade stuff in there. Without breaking the bank, what would anybody recommend? I've searched the forum and couldn't find anybody making clutch kit recommendations, but if there's a previous post I missed I'd love a link. Thanks.

 

http://www.lceperformance.com/

/thread

 

Factory clutch and re-surfaced flywheel.

 

Thanks for the link. So is it absolutely necessary to spend at least $600 on a clutch and flywheel thats performance grade? Has anyone ever purchased a kit off eBay? I'd like to find a kit that includes flywheel for $300-$400.

 

I have had good Luck with my LUK clutch kit.

The Aisin clutches are not bad for the price.

If your engine is stock i doubt very much you need a high performance clutch.

It is all in how you drive. It seems every clutch problem I have is from letting unskilled drivers use my stuff.

It all depends what your talking about in a clutch when your running 500 plus horse Power to the wheels the clutch is set up to help cushion the shock.

One breaks enough axles and u-joints

 

Thanks guys. I think I'll try to go with a LUK high performance gold clutch and a light weight flywheel. Seems as though resurfacing a flywheel is never worth it since a new one is often as much or even less than resurfacing your old one. Saw something about a guy racing on a LUK clutch so hopefully it'll be able to take some aggressive driving every now and then.

 

re-surfacing shouldn't be that expensive. ~$75 max

 

I gotta say it... this logic is failed in so many ways.

1. Resurfacing a flywheel typically cost 30-35 bucks. If you pay more then you should consider buying a new one.
2. Do some research on clutches. The fact that you "heard " someone having good luck with a LUK gold doesn't mean you will.
3. Have you ever driven a DD with a "light" flywheel ? have fun..... There's reasons why mfg's use heavy flywheels in production vehicles. Do the research.

There are so many other performance upgrades you can do.

If you need a clutch due to driveability issues then purchase a LUK standard, Marlin Crawler ( your choice of level ), Centerforce, etc.

 

Good points you bring up Sensei. I do need a new clutch due to drivability issues. If the prices are close I'd rather have a new flywheel to install right away, since my truck is the only car I have. Excuse my ignorance (this is the first car/truck I've owned) but what does DD stand for? Is having a light flywheel really a downgrade as far driveability?

Also it seemed as though on many other forums I found people would seem to favor LUK clutches due to longevity over other brands. The fact that I saw someone had raced on one of them was just an accessory to the already good info I had found on them. To satisfy my curiosity, what other upgrades would you recommend around a new clutches price range?

 

dd = daily driver, the car you use every day

 

Thanks irab88. Knew I was a bit slow sometimes, but I should have guessed that.

Sensei, my friend has a Nissan with a lightened flywheel and it drives great. Not sure what it would do to my pickup's feel...maybe someone could enlighten me?

 

Let me try to enlighten....

The purpose of the fly wheel is to keep the engine turning round when the engine is not being powered round.
At idle or during normal driving the load from the drive train is very low so you don't need a lot of momentum to turn the engine to the next power point, therefore you can have a very light flywheel. Light is good as the less weight you carry round the more acceleration you get.
When you let out the clutch you are connecting a stationary bit of drive train to a moving bit of drive train, the engine is loaded and if there is not enough momentum in the fly wheel it will not get to the next power point and stall. Heavy is good for people with poor clutch control.

So to summarize, if you want a truck thats fast off the line and you are really good on the clutch then put the lightest flywheel in you can find, but it will be a pig to drive in traffic.

 

I am enlightened (somewhat)

Sensei, let me say first that I appreciate the summary. It definitely has helped me understand the purpose of a flywheel a bit better.

Through some Internet research I've found a couple animations that illustrate your explanations pretty well. However, I'm still a bit confused as to how the flywheel helps the engine turn. I though the flywheel just acted as the contact patch between the drive train and the engine, and that the clutch was used in conjunction with the flywheel as a connection point between the two. How does the flywheel drive engine rotation as you say?

Once again thanks for all the help.

On a side note I've driven a stick for most of my driving career and have valeted cars for the last 4 years, so I've had to deal with a variety if clutches. Maybe I can find a middle ground in flywheel weight, as I do agree with you about traffic....specifically I speak of Seattle traffic.

 

"22re pickup" and "street racer" are oxymorons

 

I just put the 1200 lb heavy duty clutch kit and a new flywheel from Marlin Crawler in my 94 and I love it. Check it out. Don't forget the shifter bushings.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/...ch-kit-1200-lb

 

If you read animations describing rotational mass then you should understand the physics; inertia carried by a heavier flywheel is greater than by a lighter flywheel... hence the engine revolutions are maintained for a longer period of time.

 

I'm getting a lot of hate for my noun usage... Let me just say I'd like to have fun with my truck when the pavement is wet and also want the versatility and reliability of a Toyota Pickup.

Something like this: http://www.holden.com.au/vehicles/ute#/overview

I know the car won't be fast, but in my opinion, with RWD anything can be fun to drive.

I was just hoping I could get some advice on higher performance parts, clutches in particular, so that during the required replacement of parts on my truck I could feel relaxed about being aggressive with them every now and then.


Sensei, I understand the physics of inertia and the kinetic energy of the flywheel acting as momentum on the engine. It was unclear initially from your description if there was some other energy besides inertia acting on the flywheel in support of engine rotation. Thanks for clearing it up.

Sorry to seem like such a dope for wanting to make my pickup a "street racer"...it seems poorer words could not have been chosen.

 

Hey, no need to be sorry about any questions asked. That's what this forum is all about, exchange of ideas, learn new things, sort out problems etc. We just want you to understand all the options available to you.

If you want to make a street racer, go for it. It's your truck for you to enjoy.

I run LUK and Marlin Crawler cluches in my trucks ( 85 22R 4x & 85 22RE 4x ) Both work great and they attach to stock flywheels. 90% of the time they are offroad in all types of terrain.

The biggest bummer to running a lighter flywheel is as we have discused, driving in traffic. Clutch engagement becomes....interesting. But as you've stated you have lots of experience so that shouldn't be too much of an issue.

 

It really seems like you want to spend the money on high performance parts whether or not you need them.

You have a 2wd truck with 106 hp when brand spanking new.

You don't need high dollar parts in that thing.

I had a Marlin 1200lb clutch in my old runner on 35's, 5:29's and locked front and rear. There is absolutely nothing you can do with your truck that can strain the clutch as much as I did and it held up fine.

Just find yourself a good replacement clutch and as long as you don't ride it, it will hold up fine. The Luk non-gold would be just fine.

Save some of the money you want to spend on a slick light flywheel and invest it into some good tools or something.

 

Thanks for giving the "bottom line" about clutches and flywheels guys. Your responses have really helped me narrow down my search and given me a realistic idea of what I should be getting for the driving I'll be doing.

Hopefully after I spend a bit of time fixing and tinkering with my truck I'll be able to offer the same sound advice to another Newbie that jumps on this site.

Thanks again!