95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Prepping a Supercharger for Powder Coating.

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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 05:13 PM
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Prepping a Supercharger for Powder Coating.

Talked to Liquid Powder Coating today, they said to remove anything from the supercharger that cannot be powder coated or that cannot withstand 400* F.

Now my question is, what should I remove?

Obviously I need to drain the nose drive oil. What else should I do?

-Brian
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 05:34 PM
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Anything not metal that won't take 400 F remove it or it will be ruined.

:wabbit2:
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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How about the pulley? Do i need to worry about paint getting in there?

Also, how does one go about removing the eh idk what it's called.

This thing in the top right of this pic.



Here's a better pic of it. On it, it says, "Factory adjusted, do not lift here"

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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 06:18 AM
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Yes remove that, "bypass valve actuator" part of it is plastic, actually look where the plastic meets the metal bracket the three little spots that look like a plastic weld/plastic rivet will come apart. be sure and post pics of the finished product I'm curious to see it!
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 93NMyota
Yes remove that, "bypass valve actuator" part of it is plastic, actually look where the plastic meets the metal bracket the three little spots that look like a plastic weld/plastic rivet will come apart. be sure and post pics of the finished product I'm curious to see it!
Hmm ill have to take it apart tonight.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 93NMyota
Yes remove that, "bypass valve actuator" part of it is plastic, actually look where the plastic meets the metal bracket the three little spots that look like a plastic weld/plastic rivet will come apart. be sure and post pics of the finished product I'm curious to see it!
How exactly do they come apart?
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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Bump!
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 09:28 PM
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I gotta say it, I'm not big on the idea of getting it pc. To do it right, you'd need to strip the whole thing apart. It just doesn't seem like a good idea to me unless you are fully capable of tearing out the rotors, nose cone and such.
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by vital22re
I gotta say it, I'm not big on the idea of getting it pc. To do it right, you'd need to strip the whole thing apart. It just doesn't seem like a good idea to me unless you are fully capable of tearing out the rotors, nose cone and such.
This.


Andreas
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by vital22re
I gotta say it, I'm not big on the idea of getting it pc. To do it right, you'd need to strip the whole thing apart. It just doesn't seem like a good idea to me unless you are fully capable of tearing out the rotors, nose cone and such.
Originally Posted by aowRS
This.


Andreas
Yeah I kinda agree, this is my fear.
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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Who is it that you guys send those things to to get rebuilt? Maybe he can strip it for you so you can get it pc'd, then he can put it back together and send it back to ya.

More $, but just a thought. Good luck!
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 10:43 AM
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Yep, bad idea IMHO. If it really looks bad tape it off and rattle can it.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by stockwell45
Who is it that you guys send those things to to get rebuilt? Maybe he can strip it for you so you can get it pc'd, then he can put it back together and send it back to ya.

More $, but just a thought. Good luck!
I considered that option but that's big money hmm.

Originally Posted by mt_goat
Yep, bad idea IMHO. If it really looks bad tape it off and rattle can it.
Eh i'd rather not have it look... Home made.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 08:50 PM
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Sorry to bring up an oldie but did anything ever come of this idea?? I'm pulling my sc to reseal and coat my vlave covers soon. I was thinking about coating the trd logo on the sc while its off. Do you figure this would be safe to do if the nose cone and bypass actuator valve have been removed?? Im thinking that the guts of the supercharger are fairly tolerant to heat since it creates a lot of heat on its own... Any helpful info is appreciated. Thanks.
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by DossCable
Sorry to bring up an oldie but did anything ever come of this idea?? I'm pulling my sc to reseal and coat my vlave covers soon. I was thinking about coating the trd logo on the sc while its off. Do you figure this would be safe to do if the nose cone and bypass actuator valve have been removed?? Im thinking that the guts of the supercharger are fairly tolerant to heat since it creates a lot of heat on its own... Any helpful info is appreciated. Thanks.
It was taken apart and coated a few months ago and is pulling a healthy 10psi of boost currently. As long as it is disassembled it will be ok. Anything plastic will not be able to take the 400*+ temps.
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Swimmerboy2112
It was taken apart and coated a few months ago and is pulling a healthy 10psi of boost currently. As long as it is disassembled it will be ok. Anything plastic will not be able to take the 400*+ temps.

Any pics??

As far as the disassembly goes, did you pull the guts out or just strip down the outside housing (nose cone, bypass actuator valve...)??
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DossCable
Any pics??

As far as the disassembly goes, did you pull the guts out or just strip down the outside housing (nose cone, bypass actuator valve...)??
I will send pics when I get off work.

I completely disassembled every part.
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 05:40 PM
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2x wanna see
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 09:23 AM
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 01:59 PM
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Holy Hell that looks nice!



Andreas
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