Prepping a Supercharger for Powder Coating.
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 3
From: Walnutport, PA
Prepping a Supercharger for Powder Coating.
Talked to Liquid Powder Coating today, they said to remove anything from the supercharger that cannot be powder coated or that cannot withstand 400* F.
Now my question is, what should I remove?
Obviously I need to drain the nose drive oil. What else should I do?
-Brian
Now my question is, what should I remove?
Obviously I need to drain the nose drive oil. What else should I do?
-Brian
#3
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 3
From: Walnutport, PA
How about the pulley? Do i need to worry about paint getting in there?
Also, how does one go about removing the eh idk what it's called.
This thing in the top right of this pic.

Here's a better pic of it. On it, it says, "Factory adjusted, do not lift here"
Also, how does one go about removing the eh idk what it's called.
This thing in the top right of this pic.

Here's a better pic of it. On it, it says, "Factory adjusted, do not lift here"
#4
Yes remove that, "bypass valve actuator" part of it is plastic, actually look where the plastic meets the metal bracket the three little spots that look like a plastic weld/plastic rivet will come apart. be sure and post pics of the finished product I'm curious to see it!
#5
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 3
From: Walnutport, PA
Yes remove that, "bypass valve actuator" part of it is plastic, actually look where the plastic meets the metal bracket the three little spots that look like a plastic weld/plastic rivet will come apart. be sure and post pics of the finished product I'm curious to see it!
#6
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 3
From: Walnutport, PA
Yes remove that, "bypass valve actuator" part of it is plastic, actually look where the plastic meets the metal bracket the three little spots that look like a plastic weld/plastic rivet will come apart. be sure and post pics of the finished product I'm curious to see it!
Trending Topics
#8
I gotta say it, I'm not big on the idea of getting it pc. To do it right, you'd need to strip the whole thing apart. It just doesn't seem like a good idea to me unless you are fully capable of tearing out the rotors, nose cone and such.
#9
#11
Who is it that you guys send those things to to get rebuilt? Maybe he can strip it for you so you can get it pc'd, then he can put it back together and send it back to ya.
More $, but just a thought. Good luck!
More $, but just a thought. Good luck!
#14
Sorry to bring up an oldie but did anything ever come of this idea?? I'm pulling my sc to reseal and coat my vlave covers soon. I was thinking about coating the trd logo on the sc while its off. Do you figure this would be safe to do if the nose cone and bypass actuator valve have been removed?? Im thinking that the guts of the supercharger are fairly tolerant to heat since it creates a lot of heat on its own... Any helpful info is appreciated. Thanks.
#15
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 3
From: Walnutport, PA
Sorry to bring up an oldie but did anything ever come of this idea?? I'm pulling my sc to reseal and coat my vlave covers soon. I was thinking about coating the trd logo on the sc while its off. Do you figure this would be safe to do if the nose cone and bypass actuator valve have been removed?? Im thinking that the guts of the supercharger are fairly tolerant to heat since it creates a lot of heat on its own... Any helpful info is appreciated. Thanks.
#16
Any pics??
As far as the disassembly goes, did you pull the guts out or just strip down the outside housing (nose cone, bypass actuator valve...)??



hmm.