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Rebuilt 22re, timing woes

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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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Exclamation Rebuilt 22re, timing woes

Just rebuilt my 89 T4R 22RE and everything so far has been pretty textbook smooth. However.....as always....nothing goes perfectly when rebuilding big components. I mechanically timed the motor using all the correct notches and dots as the Chiltons manual said. I jumped the computer using the diagnostics port on the passenger fender (T-E) and hooked up the timing light. With the distributor gear lined up "dot to line" before sliding it in, I got the timing notch lined up with the 12 above the crank pulley. That was with the distributor pushed all the way as far as it would go toward the rear of the truck. I pulled the distributor and moved the gear cog one tooth toward the front of the truck. Tried again. This time It was about where the -1 or -2 would be if the gauge went that far according to the crank pulley. This was with the distributor adjusted fully toward the front of the truck.

I guess my problem is that there isnt a tooth between those two. Both teeth on the distributor are side by side, and they make the timing notch go to either extreme and keep the engine timed just barely close enough to let it run. But its not right. What am I missing here? Ive spent close to a week trying different things and im just about ready to do something regretful with this truck....


I apologize for the lengthy tech question and I appreciate those with th patience to read it all and actually work through it with me. Im in San Diego if any of you are nearby and have a helping idea.

Last edited by Kingjerd; Nov 18, 2011 at 07:39 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 07:49 PM
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www.22reperformance.com they have a wonderful video on distributor installation. if you dont see it, click another one of their vids. it will take you to youtube and you should see it somewhere to the right. or just go to their "channel" or whatever
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 07:56 PM
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I'll look into those guys. I briefly saw their site a few months ago and they have some quality stuff! Didn't watch any bids though. Thanks. Hope the question was understandle.
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 07:47 AM
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Their distributor video has been blocked in America. Dangit....oh well, i emailed them this post to see what they have to offer for advise.

This is the last thing I need to rolling again. I miss my truck!
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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those guys are awesome dude. . . . . i bug them more than i should bug such good people lol
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:26 AM
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Still no reply from them. Ill try them again. Has anyone ever run into this before?
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:53 AM
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fyi: just some extra info to work with: when i had my engine replaced recently, the mech. was having a problem with timing it right. he mentioned the dist. was "turned all the way".

i took it to some subaru performance shop that was suggested to me as really good troubleshooters. they told me that the marks on the motor were not coinciding with what their electronic instruments were reporting. they were able to set the timing up much better. they told me they set it to 8*.

the difference in driving it was night n' day. it finally had acceleration i'd never experienced in the truck.

so i don't know if i've got the wrong pulleys or what, but i figured i'd suggest you may have better luck using some fancier diagnostics to do the job.

good luck.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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Sounds like what I went through last year after a timing chain job on my 22RE....turned out my distributor gear was off a notch...but it looks like you already addressed that?

Something else to consider - when you set up your chain/gears, are you certain you were at TDC? I think there are 2 times when the #1 cylinder is at the top of the chamber, but only one of those is TDC (which is what you need when lining things up). Just an idea.

Good luck!
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:44 AM
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As long as the #1 piston is TDC when you install the head you are fine. As long as the cam and crank are lined up you are fine. When the #1 is at TDC on the exhaust stroke, the cam is not lined up the same as it is on the compression stroke. We triple checked all of that, and marked the dristributor and rotor so by visual inspection we would know where top dead center was. Thats why im so baffled. We verified it in so many ways. One tooth advances the timing to the point its firing up through the intake. The next tooth retards it so bad that the exhaust manifold started to glow from being used as a combustion chamber. There isnt enough adjustment available to go between.

I could obviously just leave the adjustment bolt out and spin the distributor until its right, and find another way of securing it, but thats not really solving the problem the correct way....

I really hate the thought of tearing the front cover back off. I JUST got the thing back together. LOL

Last edited by Kingjerd; Nov 23, 2011 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:13 AM
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The more I think about this, I think it's GOT to be a tooth/chain/gear misalignment.

Here is my thread on my timing chain woes, with tons of photos:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nstall-210478/

I think page 3 has the most on the timing/teeth lining up.

Are you certain the lower crank gear and chain are lined up properly?
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:14 AM
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After reading a few other posts, mostly ones about power loss....Maybe I should check the TPS. With the fresh rebuild perhaps it needs to be adjusted. When I jump the ecu the idle doesnt kick down and the timing doesnt change. Maybe the ECU doesnt know its idling.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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Oh man after reading that thread Im gunna rip the VC off, verify the bright link, and realign the distributor again. Its gotta work right?!?!?!? Thanks phil, ill keep you posted. In the mean time, heres a picture of the beast.


Purchase date...




Aaaaaannnnnd Now.




Last edited by Kingjerd; Nov 23, 2011 at 11:55 AM.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 01:21 PM
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It was really frustrating for me, and a great "aha!" moment when I figured it out - hope it's the same with what you're dealing with now

Love the "no bumper" look with the back of your truck - that sucker's clean!
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 02:02 PM
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Thanks man, I found it with 278,000 miles and a minor bit of rod knock, paid $2000. Snatched up a rebuild kit and drove it till the rear main puked out on me. That was close to 6 months ago and now ive finally finished the project.....mostly. Gotta nail down this timing issue, then get rid of that sloppy rear sag and maybe a small lift. After that its just gunna be an occasional new interior piece here and there to replace the old stuff.

I wish i had time to go pull the valve cover now, I fly to NC at 5 in the morning with the wife and three daughters. Packing tonight will be hell for that!
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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Cant wait to get back to the truck this coming Thursday to try and tackle this timing thing again!
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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Theres noway to fix it, just ship it to me and be done with it. That is a very nice looking truck and hard to find in that condition....good luck with it.
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fdp101452
Theres noway to fix it, just ship it to me and be done with it. That is a very nice looking truck and hard to find in that condition....good luck with it.
Hahahaha thanks man. I get the feeling this may be the vehicle that all three girls will learn a 5speed in. It's a family heirloom now.
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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did you rebuild it or have it rebuilt?
does it have the shim washer between the cam sprocket and the dist drive gear?
if that shims not there the drive gear wont be in the right position and moving the
distributor gear like you did will not work

you can see the shim between the sprocket and gear (its the orange looking thin piece):
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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It has it, I never removed it at least....when I'm back home and remove the valve cover ill double check it thanks man!
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 10:17 AM
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OK there is no shim, but I dont remember there ever being one there. I tagged and bagged everything during disassembly and there was no shim...I went and checked my "old parts" bin and found nothing. The chiltons manual doesnt mention a shim either. Im confused now. (pretty easy for me to get confused though, simple minded creature here) Once home today Ill post the pics I took of everything last night. Im sending these pics to Jerry at 22reperformance.com too. I pulled my valve cover yesterday to make sure the off colored link lines up properly. The link came around the first time lined up perfectly up top, the crank pulley notch is lined up on 0. I lined up the distributor just like 22reperformance.com said and it still has the same issues.

Its something simple and stupid that Im missing....I know it.

*Edit* Found where this washer is supposed to go in the Chiltons manual....but there sure as hell wasnt one when i disassembled....So why was it running right when I disassembled, but now its whacked out?

Last edited by Kingjerd; Dec 5, 2011 at 02:09 PM.
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