So I've been having some intermitant hesitation that I'm thinking is most likely a fuel delivery issue. Well, this truck has a history of sitting around, and I've let it run pretty low on fuel pretty often recently, so I'm thinking it could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter. So I went to replace the fuel filter, and it's proving to be more difficult than it should. I have a nice set of craftsman flare wrenches that I got specifically for fuel system flares. Well, the flares are stripping pretty badly, I got one side loose, and it turns smoothly about 50% of the way out, then gets hung up, so I'm guessing it was also cross threaded by the previous installer. I don't really see myself replacing the whole metal fuel line system for a stripped flare, so I'm thinking maybe I should just trim the flare ends off the fuel lines using a pipe cutter, and replace the filter with a generic inline unit that I'll use some rubber fuel line and hose clamps to secure in the same location as the OEM unit.

What do you guys think?

I hate flares.

 

Personally, I'd keep it stock & fix it, but that's me.

I foresee issues with what you're planning. I'm kind of OCCD about keeping most stuff stock as it works right for a LONG TIME~

 

If the threads really are bad then I would not hesitate to cut and use FUEL INJECTOR hose with Fuel injector clamps. Make sure the filter is metal and is rated for fuel injection pressures (60 psi minimum).

 

You're talking about pressurized gasoline here; do you really want to run the risk of pulling up to a light and seeing flames through both side windows?

Like TNRabbit, I think Toyota used steel lines for a reason. You can rent/borrow the benders and the double-flare tool (they aren't expensive anyway). And you can often buy standard lengths of steel tube with the flares and nuts already installed. The first one will be a challenge (you might even want to buy one extra to practice your bending), but after that you'll be so good at it that you'll never go flex again.

 

i just replaced my fuel filter on my 86. I do NOT have the flared fittings but maybe you could get some factory flex lines w/ the banjo bolts/fittings and use the appropriate filter.

Mine came right off w/ a 17mm socket and 19mm open end on the filter hex end.

the flex lines look like they would thread in to the existing fuel line blocks, just an idea...

 

what years do they use the flare fittings on? 92'?

BTW: you may already know this but the little access panel behind the front passenger tire helps a ton.

 

I got a 95' and need to replace mine as well, actually put a wrench on it last weekend but was afraid I would strip it like you. Tell you the truth, I'm worried about twisting the fuel line. If I were at your point, I would probably cut the line and splice in new.

 

While you're putting a new fitting on the fuel line, I would leave enough room for a fitting to attach a fuel pressure gauge. I've always wanted to be able to see fuel pressure. Safest is an electric gauge that uses a sender, rather than analog. They're pricey, usually $200-300. This looks like a decent one, with backlit dial and one of the cheaper of the type:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/3663/10002/-1

Install manual: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/2650-1134-00rB.pdf
Product page: http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...id=3533&sid=60

BTW the thread size on the fuel filter is M14 X 1.50

 

Ooooh nice! Would be helpful to monitor fuel pressure.

BTW - do the stock yota hard lines have metric flare fittings or sae?

 

Um. I thought I gave that at the end of my post.

M14 X 1.50 is a metric thread size. So you would need a fitting that had that thread male on one end, female on the other, with a 1/8" NPT female fitting on the side for the sender (with that particular gauge), or a different size on the side and an adapter to 1/8" NPT. Jegs sells a bunch of fittings, so does summitracing. NAPA might be able to source it for you, also.

Have fun!

 

oh yeah - oops - thanks

i doubt a combo metric /sae fitting is likely available but the adapter will do.

 

Dropping 200-300 bucks on a fuel pressure gauge for the Old Runner seems like a waste to me. I mean, its not like your are running an 800hp big block that needs to be monitored. If it works, its good enough.

 

True, it is not needed. But then, many things that we spend hundreds of dollars for on our trucks are not "needed" but we buy them anyway. Few people "need" an iPhone, 54" HDTV etc. but stores seem to sell a lot of them...

kirkerik, here's a place that sells metric to 1/8" NPT female adapters that may work for you:
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_acce.asp?...apter_Bushings

Or these which use copper crush gaskets rather than rubber o-rings:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Auto-Meter/Aut...49158/10002/-1

 

Ahem...speak for yourself, I need my Iphone and 54' HDTV, but I want an
800hp big block in my old 4Runner! yeah

 

No 22re's not likely to lean out and blow if the fuel pressure drops!

Thanks that's handy, they are available then. No not needed but i will get a vacuume gauge and an ammeter though

 

OOPS! My bad, kirkerik I missed that you have an 86. The threads on those filters are smaller: M12 x 1.25

Sorry about that.

I updated my link to adapters. These adapters are probably better because they have crush washers instead of neoprene o-rings:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Auto-Meter/Aut...49158/10002/-1

 

I have replaced the stock filter with a cartridge type of course using Fuel injection line and clamps and suitable for the fuel injection pressure.

It sure is a lot nicer then fighting with the stock one

 

If the filter is above the starter as I recall(reachable thru the rubber curtain on passenger fender) then you could extend the present hard to reach location with about 3 feet of FI hose to the fender area under the hood. Then it would be a joy to change...but once you change it you don't have to touch it for 100k or 200k miles, I think?

I used to work for AutoZone in 1993....I think we used to sell short 3" tubes with the FI flare male thread on one end and open on the other....put two of those on the oem filter and run it to the fenderwell for easy access