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SAW hex bolts seized

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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 01:25 PM
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Darren's Avatar
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SAW hex bolts seized

Being that my SAW springs have sagged about a half-inch or so in the past 6 months, or whenever I adjusted them last, I went to dial them up a bit yesterday and wouldn't you know it, I couldn't even loosen the hex bolt (or whatever it is) to adjust the suckers. Both of them.

I stripped the 2 existing 5/32 hex keys that I had, in addition to torquing the one that came with them, so it's all twisted up now. I picked up 2 more today at lunch, one which is long with a handle at the end. I tried it again, but the things still won't budge. Yeah, they're really on there.

Any suggestions other than blowing the thing up? Oh, and I have sprayed some WD-40 in there. I'm guessing I may need a titanium hex key to do the job if I keep going through the standard issue ones. Any of my neighbors have one?!

I guess I know now that IF I get them loosened at some point, I will never tighten them too much the next time around.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 01:27 PM
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From: Mesa, AZ
Drill bits and easyouts.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 01:43 PM
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After a quick Google search on easyouts (was previously unfamiliar with them), I'm unable to determine if that could destroy the hex bolt by stripping it or what not. It does sound like that is a possibility.

A drill bit?

Assuming I eventually broke the bolt currently in there, does anyone know if that item is common at hardware stores, or is it specific to Sway-A-Way? I've never taken it all the way out to even know what it looks like.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 01:47 PM
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From: Mesa, AZ
Originally posted by Darren
After a quick Google search on easyouts (was previously unfamiliar with them), I'm unable to determine if that could destroy the hex bolt by stripping it or what not. It does sound like that is a possibility.

A drill bit?

That will destroy it. You drill a hole throught the nut or whatever and then stick the easyout in and back it out.
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 09:02 AM
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From: Thornton, CO
Wow, I didn't think we got those very tight either.

By the way, you've lost the half inch of lift due to the 200 psi of nitrogen gradually leaking out - most likely not due to the springs sagging. It improves the ride, too, when you recharge the shocks to the full pressure.
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 09:12 AM
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I have adjusted them twice since we installed them, Jeff. Must have just been the elements which have caused the things to tighten up even further.

I didn't even think about the leaking of nitrogen. I've certainly given them a good work out in the time that I've had them, so yep, it could be about that time.
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 01:11 PM
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Yup, I'm sure they're due. I waited about 2 years before dealing with the pressure in mine for the first time. Now I know that was too long. Something more like 1 year seems like a reasonable max. I was noticing more bouncing and they were definitely softer before recharging them, too. It really sucks to get an air chuck on/off the schraeder valve with the way we have to mount the SAW's. As long as you're sure you can get an air chuck on there, I'd recommend letting the remaining pressure out before refilling it. There's a small amount of oil that sprays out when you release the rest of the pressure. That way it won't inject the small amount of oil backwards into the nitrogen hose. They're supposed to be re-charged to 200 psi with the shock at full extension, so just jack up the front. I've heard Poison Spyder Customs might recharge them. It's been a long time since I did a search for local shops that can recharge them. I ended up combining some CO2 and N2 equipment with a friend and purchasing a nitrogen bottle along with a couple friends. So I don't have a good solution about a location to recharge them.
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