ok, first thread. 92 4x4 p/u 22re, since i bought truck (2009) i learned the hard way not to get it wet. "you have something wrong" light, sputter, dead. no starting no matter how many times i verify dry dist., coil, ignit., wires, and tps. attempts to start result in quick fire up, see idle for half a second, and dead. additional throttle input has no positive effect. starts when it feels like it later, fast on hot day, longer wait on cold day

also, since having truck, an occasional "bump" would happen when driving, i call it a missfire. . . .maybe not, violent off-on off-on of power accompanied by a check engine light that only stays lit for the durration which is usually a few seconds.

this truck hates factory timing on regular fuel. 5 deg. before tdc W/ CHECK CONNECTOR IN PLACE results in awesome "marbles in tin-can sound" i run 1-2 degrees to minimize pinging

yesterday i ohmed out tps. failed my newb test. i am not an automotive electrical expert! but testing "by the book" showed an innability to maintain proper resistance values at pre-determined and guaged throttle inputs. w.o.t. was completely imposible because as soon as i got to it, meter would show zero. after ordering new part, (while i have to make do with bad) i set tps as far advanced (against throttle rotation) as possible as that gave the best "happy medium" for other readings

i now isolated my "bump" condition to 100% of the time at a specific throttle opening, load or free reving. whereas before, it was far more intermittent and random and only under load. like once a day. i noticed no difference in pinging and know that the ecu still recognizes idl position because it idles down with check connector installed

today it rained. i barely made it to the toyota dealer. died numerous times luckily at speed and would coast-start itself after a few seconds. never did that in the rain before. only a large puddle or "lets see where the new leak is" degrease and hose down would do that normally. trying to leave the dealer it would not start, popped hood, checked everything high like usual, then, looking low, noticed the wire from my oil filter's midget look alike (knock sensor?) wiggled it and she started. if that is the knock sensor, a failing circuit would only cause ecu to go fail-safe and retard timing. . . . . . . .and throw a code i believe

does tps affect timing advance? would a failing tps possibly result in timing advancing too far for given load values. shouldn't the knock sensor over-ride and correct? if my knock sensor is bad would flash codes not point me its direction, the only codes i've ever seen flash seem to be a combination of tps and coil/ign circuit. gunna be a few days before i get new tps. if thats not the real problem then at least i know it wont be later. any help please?

 

lot to read guys but . . . . anything. . . . . . . . . today's flash code: coil/ignitor circuit which translates bump. . . . . . . . bump bump bump bump

 

All I know is that a vehicle running poorly when it's rainy is a classic symptom of a bad ignition coil. On the Yotas, it can also be a bad igniter. But generally, think coil.

 

the ignitor. . . . . . could that possibly cause my ignition advancement issue? I heard they just work or dont work but thats way to simple for me lol. and thank you for the reply.

 

keep in mind that my previous truck was an 04 chevy silverado that though i never had to work on, developed a sense of how an obdII system works and may be over thinking the simpler system on my yota

 

anybody heard of a table possibly showing timing advance values for a 22re during normal operation? i would have to get an adjustible timing light but may be worth it. gues it would have to only show for no load circumstances though as i dont see myself riding on the core support while my buddy drives me around with a timing light, hood up hahahaha

 

It's not uncommon for the windshield to leak on the ECU.

 

my 92 starts missing and lags really bad after i go through the car wash,runs like crap untill it dries out.when you get it up to 3500 rpms ,power kicks in like a turbo.

 

ok, hate to admit this but i have never even SEEN the ecu on this truck, i will soak truck and take a look but i have never noticed the passenger floor being wet. and cman1, yours seems to be the more common issue of moisture in dist, wires, or tps. i was thinking my water issue may be tps related but my truck runs like a champ with tps disconnected sooooooooo my water issue must be ignition related. . . . even with new wires, cap, rotor, cap-to-dist seal, etc etc. the only things old are the dist. itself, coil/ignitor, and any wiring that doesn't go coil-dist-plugs

 

ECU is in the passenger kick panel. Check for windshield leaks, I've heard this story too many times.

 

that sounds worth a try. also, how many people actually run with their inner fender-wells complete? Also, you say windshield, havac intake is those slits upove the hood right?

 

Im reviving this thread,today,in this wet snow ,its doing it again,usually runs perfect,really,ecu is dry,when it gets wet out,like car wash or now wet snow,no power up to 3200 or 3400 (rpms) then kicks in like a mule!!! runs and idles like crap untill it sits and dries off,then runs perfect again.just did FULL tune-up,plugs,cap,rotor,head gasket,timing chain....wth...

 

Have you tried an ignition coil? As I said earlier, poor performance in wet weather is a classic sign of a failing coil. I don't seen any mention of your having checked that.

 

Get some dielectric grease and go to town sealing everything up, that may help and at the very least it will prevent corrosion.

 

its really aggrevating,i finally got this thing running really good,gremlins suck!!! i really dont think its the coil cuz it really does run awesome otherwise.

 

didn't know this thread got started again! my problem got worse to the point of not running dry!

replaced coil, tried 2 ignitors (my junkyard guy rules) and checked continuity from ignitor to ecu.

finally one night i removed my upper intake, and split the harness from ignitor all the way back to the firewall (where it goes into cab). after a semi-sober inspection, and no apparent problem, i re-insulated. when i say that i mean tape, factory conduits, tape, tape, tape lol. make sure and and use good tape. like the best you can buy. im already redoing where i ran out of "the good stuff" and substituted with chepo stuff i had in my box

RUNS LIKE A CHAMP!!!!!!!!!!!

 

shoot i almost forgot, i had a ground on my fuel injector rail, and moved it to the upper/lower intake mounting stud. not sure if it helped but certainly didn't hurt

 

well, today before work,i took the dizzy cap off,rtv'd around cap,swapped out coil/igniter with a known good spare,and pulled ECM out,dry,still was running the same ...finally dried out after about a 30 minute drive ,runs perfect..WTF?i still have no idea WHAT dried out...

 

cman, did you read my last post?

 

just did... yesterday i went over the harness,retaped everything,rtv'd every little hole in the fenders,pulled the ecu back out and sat it on the floor,for now.and went to the car wash...same friggin thing,idles bad,runs bad up till 3200 then kicks in like a turbo...does this until it dries out.