like it says in the title im doing the 63 chevy spring swap and im curious what shock location and angles you have found that worked good on a daily driver. it sees 40 minute trip one way to work everyday so i need it to be safe on the freeway at highway speeds. I have read horror stories of people with the /\ setup on the freeway and almost loosing it, so im looking away from that style and more to the stock style for a DD. I figured you guys have done there and been that and could give me the best idea of angle and location for my setup... any info is greatly appreciated

 

no one drives their yoda on the road with the chevy swap?

 

Going to be doing the swap myself too. Got the springs, next is hardware. Didn't think about this particular problem... Staying tuned to see what people say.

 

I don't run either but my research tells me go like this / \ and use a stiffer shock. Ala nitro charged similar to a Procomp ES9000. You will have to measure for your particular setup to get the correct length shock. Don't fully weld your mounts till you get the shocks. Also don't drive your truck like a race car on the street and you should be fine.

 

Depends on the vehicle and since you don't say...

Typically no need to change from the stock upper mounts just move the lowers on the axle.

:wabbit2:

 

thanx for the info wabfab

 

the reason for the /\ angles is so they can fit a longer shock in a smaller place..but if you go too far with the /\ the shocks dont work well anyways

 

For maximum shock dampening, which I think you would want for a dd, run your shocks vertical (l l). I went for a medium between /\ and l l. I can try to get a pic if you want.

 

ya any pictures to give me an idea of what works would be great

 

Not running Chevy springs, but some ideas/pictures below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...shtml#R-Shocks

 

then there is budbuilt's option, I personally like this option as long as you got a good OEM crossbar that is not rusted out like mine is. lol.

No welding, 100% bolt on.

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/shock_mounts.html

 

Great Pics!

 

i have 63's and bilstien 5125 12"ers and have no problems on the highway at up to my max speed of 70 with 35's. oh, and im lincoln locked too.

 

Erock... Do your bump stops ever touch or do your rear shocks act as Bump stops right now?

 

how did i know this question would follow my post? lol! no the bumps do not touch. i need to make new bump pads off the frame and set them to stop the springs at flat. with the shocks at that angle my measurements (which have failed me before) tell me that ill have 2" of compression left with the spring flat. until i get a break from work ill slow for dips to save the shocks and springs.

 

My shocks are my Bump stops up front right now... Needless to say i don't drive my truck fast over bumps

I am redoing my rear end this weekend. leaf spring swap time.

 

Just verifying that what i was thinking was correct.

How does your truck do with Body roll? Mine is really bad right now with the 4 link in the back and i hate it.

 

Just in case someone don't understand why E-ROC's shocks don't bottom out when it look's like there is more travel to the bump stop then the shock, when you go like this / \ with the shock (and I may have the numbers wrong but you get the idea) For every 2" of suspension travel the shock travels only 1". It had been mentioned earlier kinda that it allows you to run a longer shock in the back, this is one of the reasons why.

 

Here's a poser flex shot. Shocks are 12" bilsteins for reference. Generic mounts on the axle and for the top I notched a 2x2 piece of square tubing to fit between the frame rails. I can drill new holes if I want to also, so the shock angle is adjustable.

 

a little more body roll than stock but i drive by the premiss that its a offroad rig not a porsche boxster. your 4 link is probably far softer riding than my 63's which will make a diff in body roll. ever toyed with the thought of doing the torsion bar trick for a sway bar?