I have a 94 ext cab that the double cardon joint has gone out of. I am really thinking about swaping in a one piece driveshaft. Went to a fabrication shop and they quoted $160 (approx) using my driveline ends, Have also found a new diveline online for $260. Would the new one be that much better to warrant the extra $100 +shipping or would you go with the local shop.

 

Depends on who is building the driveline new.

$260 seems awful cheap for all new components. Depends on what you are getting....cheap Chinese junk or good quality OEM parts?

 

on the same topick, can you swap the one peice driveline out of a standard cab long bed?

 

Here is a link to the place that I found the new driveline, http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/CUS...ive_shafts.htm

 

If you could find one maybe. However, the standard cab long beds were super super rare. Im not even sure the drivelines are the same length.

 

Would not think so. Mine is a long bed aswell. (6ft.) Or were the standard cab longbeds longer?

 

That place looks legit. But shipping that driveline is going to be $$$$$ since they are about 50+" long or so

 

6 foot isn't a long bed.

7 Foot is a long bed

 

So you are basically advising going to the local machine shop? I do like saving $$$$ and also supporting local bussineses, So that would not hurt my fellers.

 

That is what I would do.

Let some others chime in before making your decision though, but I have always had good luck with my local driveline shop. Good quality, and I know what parts they are using. No chinese junk here

 

Thanks for your insight DC. Just thinking that price wise It makes more sense. Will probably be more reliable aswell. Half the u-joints, no pita center joint, and no carrier bearing to deal with.

 

The whole concept behind the two-piece rear driveline was increased ground clearance, unfortunately at the expense of higher maintenance costs in the long run. I have over 250k on mine and I'm just now noticing excessive play in the carrier bearing...other than that I just had to replace u-joints. I would personally stick with the factory design.

 

You have a very valid point and I guess I should have mentioned this is my DD. I do some camping/fishing in the hills but dont really do any extreme wheeling. So I dont think the loss of ground clearance on break over angles will be of any concern.

 

Because of the simplicity of a one piecer and truly minimal loss of ground clearance, it's considered to be superior by many. I just like to keep the original yota engineering in place for the most part, the 3VZ exhaust crossover being one exception.

 

Subscribed, also looking for an inexpensive 1 piece to replace my two piece but dont wanna shell out the big bux till i have dual cases

 

Decided to go with the local machine shop. Dropped it off to them this afternoon and should have it back sometime early next week. Will let you all know how it turns out.

 

Roger that Roger. By the way did you happen to measure the stock one piece ds.

I was under the impression it would be the same length.

 

I did measure the distance from flange to flange with the truck sitting on level ground at 67.5" I have not measured the 2 piece though, and am thinking that it is a little to late to do that now (as the old one is now in the posession of the fabricator). I am thinking that the two piece would be slightly longer due to the angle in the middle.

 

make sure they can balance one that long!!!

 

If you're going cost effective, you can vet a replacement domestic bearing for abot thirty bucks. Swapped mine after looking it up. Think it's gmc swap though dont have a part number. Look up the driveshaft width and take that to napa. My two cents