Just looking for a "3rd/4th" opinion. But, I recently had the top end rebuilt and excited to be behind the wheel of the ol' Runner again, I took it for a drive. Before I list my issues though, I'll list what was done and a little background information.

ALL WORK DONE BY A PROFESSIONAL AT A SHOP.

Headgasket Set - Includes all gaskets ( valve cover, intake manifold, etc )
Headbolt Set
Antifreeze/coolant
Thermostat
Knock Sensor Wire
New Valve Train
Resurfaced Heads
Castrol 5w/30 synthetic high mileage
Oil Filter
Antifreeze

and a few hoses that had split were replaced.

1st issue: I noticed it was idling a little low, no problem, i left it be. But then I turned the AC on and it stalled instantly. I got out, adjusted the idle to 1000, tested it again and it functioned. So I went on with my drive.

2nd Issue: Extremely low power, and little to no response when downshifting or accelerating. Is this normal...? This engine has been 100% serviced ( the only thing that hasn't been touched is the block, alternator, and starter ) So this thing should be tip top at 157k miles. but should I be experiencing the "fall on its face" under heavily acceleration? I've gotten a few opinions from other locals associates and they pretty much just tell me "its a toyota with 33s, its normal" but I have 4.88s and before I had an issue, I could roll up hills steadily in 4th/5th gear without hesitation. Now im back to ( what it seems like ) 4.10s and 33s. The analogy could probably be compared to 4.10s and 35s, but i've never driven with that set up. But anyways, Im pretty upset with the truck, and its going back to where I initially had the work done to check for further dyagnostics, but I figured I could get a 3rd/4th opinion from here.

I've done a little background search, and a few others on here have had the same issue, but it was timing/valve related. With that said, It just might be that.

Any information would be extremely helpful. I just want this rig back on the road, ready for another 200k.

Thanks.

 

Jesus Mike, you just dont get a break do you? lol

 

nope... not lately. It kinda sucks, but you know... its life. hahaha I think i've narrowed down the problem though. when I turn the car on, my AC compressor makes a strange hissing noise, even though its not on. it does it for a moment but stops until i turn the AC back on, and then it really bogs the car down and doesn't change the RPMs so i'm thinking its AC related... but would this cause power issues even though it wasn't on...? I know its still connected to the pulley, maybe there's resistance?

( I'm aware that the AC normally bogs down any car, but this is something a little different )

 

wow u got some issues, first thing i would do is look over all the vacuum lines. i had an issue once and ended up being vacuum lines in the wrong area. second i would check the timing, also hows the cat? if its plugged it will also have no power and fall on its face feeling. also another thing is fuel filter... just some ideas.

 

I double checked the vacuum lines for myself, and they're correct. haven't personally checked timing though. And theres no catayltic converter. lol

 

hey....not sure this is going to be of any value....but.

in doing the timing belt this past weekend, had an SOB of a time getting it to line up right, consistently fell 1 tooth short of what we needed. I figured it out an got it dead-on.

as far as that goes, the only way I can think of to see if your belt is right is to see if your match-marks line up......2 cams and crankshaft. I will look and see, but I'm fairly certain you can see the mark on the crankshaft gear from up above.

of course, doing all that is gonna be a PITA, but it's what I can think of to eliminate the belt as a possibility. if you read the last several posts of my son's build thread you will see what I am talking about and how frustrating it was.

 

why don't you do a compression test first and see if it's low? start with the simple things first as they say

 

Mike.....I just went out and looked.....I can see that mark on the crankshaft gear....but barely, and I painted it so I can see it more easily.

like posted above with the compression test.....yep, there are certainly a few variables that can be eliminated.......compression test is easy enough that I was able to even do it.

I would start with seeing if the belt is lined up......if it is...get it timed.....at the same time check for mis-matched vac hoses etc (missing, cracked).

 

1 more thing.....here is a pic of Joe's motor with the belt spot-on....notice the itsy bitsy mark on the top of the crankshaft gear....that is what you are looking for

 

+2 on either timing or vacuum related.

If the distributor was one tooth off you can have similar issues, a timing light can help diagnose that. Also, I would sure want to make sure your timing belt lines up correctly. (That is a bit of a PITA, in order to remove the upper timing cover you have to pull the upper radiator hose neck and the studs out of the center idler. Perhaps you can remove the timing cover bolts and see behind it just enough without having to do all that.)

You already confirmed your vac lines are routed correctly, but a vac leak can also cause your symptoms. Try spraying carb cleaner carefully around vac lines with the engine idling to see if the idle speed changes.

Sorry to hear you rig is not running right - good luck.

 

All the legit mechanics that I know would want to know you were having problems after they worked on the unit - most would not have let it leave the shop if it was running poorly. I would start with them doing a once-over and figuring out what they messed up. If it's something new, they should tell you what it is (at no charge) and give you an estimate to repair it.

 

did you ever put a timing might on it. some motors respond extremely well to advanced timing. some run like crap at stock timing (mine) set it at 12* with the jumper in place and take it for a spin

 

+3 on timing. Pull the front back off, re-time it, and it will be back to normal

I usually run mine around 12-15 BTDC. 10 sucks. 20 pings.

 

+4 on timing the belt to be exact, sounds like the left (driver) side is atleast 1 tooth off.

 

Correct on the timing. Took it back in, they adjusted it, but its still off. I needed it back that night, so I drove it around. It seriously seems like it just trips over itself. but whatever, It'll be going back again on monday. Im not particularly understanding why this is such a difficult feat? is it 3vz related, or am I just dealing with idiots? I have no clue.

 

They can be difficult to time correctly if the shop isn't really familiar with the Toyota. I refuse to take mine anywhere. I just do it myself, waaaaaaay less hassle

 

I know the guy that owns the shop is very experienced with Toyotas. He's owned 6 and now his son owns one as well. ( his son's truck needed a new motor, and he rebuilt it in the shop ) but Im particular about the guy that specifically worked on my truck. Hes an older gentleman, dont really know him all that well. but everything seems to be buttoned up correctly. Honestly, I think it was the head work that was done. The heads were sent to a machine shop and they were resurfaced, cleaned up and along with new valves. But they had issues with the heads at the shop, saying that the valves weren't seating, etc etc. So i'm thinking the machine shop might have assembled the cam shafts wrong, and the lobes aren't working spot on like they should be.

 

Still having the same issue... and now im becoming impatient especially sinces its been like 8-9 weeks since i've driven my truck in a 'healthy" condition.

but anyways, is my truck missing? i'll be cruising at a steady 65 miles an hour. It'll "choke", have zero power, and drop in speed. I could press the pedal to the floor and it still feels flat, until it feels like it "catches its breath" and accelerates again, but slowly. This is certainly timing related, am i right?

Also, Just out of curiousity, OBD 1 computers store codes that are thrown, correct? as in, engine light comes on, turns off, 30 minutes later, comes on again, and repeats? I'm being told my truck hasn't thrown a code in almost 6-7 weeks, and theres no history of the codes that were thrown almost a week ago... to my knowledge, OBD1 saves, and stores codes until the battery is disconnected, correct?

 

(subscribe)

Waiting to hear about code storage from those that know myself. I know other vehicles do, but I'm not sure there was so much standardization with I, vs II. Good luck with it.

 

I don't see where a compression test was done yet. If the shop had trouble with the valves seating, I guarantee they switched the lifter shims around.

Also, has the TPS been adjusted?