Hey guys, I was leaving class and came across a rail road track that I drive over every other day. I was driving around 30-35 mph when I drove over it and as soon as I drove past the rail road track, my truck all of the sudden pulled to the left. I felt the change and immediately slowed down to regain control. I stopped the truck and checked things out but could not see anything wrong. I drove it again and it drove fine, no noise, no pulsation, and nothing I can see physically to the truck but still pulls to the left. Could it be an alignment issue? Stabilizer bar? Idler arm?
I had the truck for almost a year now and still finding new things about the truck so if you guys have any suggestions, that would be great. Thanks in advance guys.

 

I'd start by getting it aligned, If you have a shop locally that is worth it's salt you can take it in for an alignment and have them take a look at things while they are in there.

However you need to be prepared for them to tell you all kinds of other things will need to be "replaced", ask me how I know.....

 

I got a buddy who can look at it if it's an alignment issue but it just seems really odd that it shifted to the left the way it did...I also have a bad CV axel but I have been driving it that way for nearly a year now so that may not be the case. Not too sure of course.

 

Stranger things have happened. I went on a wheeling trip in my 86 pickup and on the way home it pulled to the left a tad and the steering wheel was cocked. Turns out I knocked the alignment out. Of course on that trip I also developed an oil leak at the front main, toasted the alternator because of the oil slinging everywhere and crushed my transmission cross member. Man what a great trip!

 

I see, strange things can happen. I'll be taking it to his shop and see what the conclusions are. Thanks for the tip!

 

Upon further inspections, when I drive the truck up to speeds of 35-40 mph, the steering wheel shakes a bit, kinda like it is pulsating and when it pulsates, it mildly jerks the steering wheel a bit and still pulls to the left.

 

Check your ball joints for wear. This is often symptoms of shot ball joints. One could have been weak already and the jar of crossing the tracks could have finished it off. A similar thing happened to a buddies truck two weeks ago - we pulled it in the garage and checked ball joints, sure enough. Replacing them tomorrow.

 

Hmmm, dumb question but, how do I check for a bad ball joint?

 

Lift the front wheels off the ground and try to move the tire/wheel in and out grabbing the tire by the top and bottom, also check side to side. If you have a helper one can try to move the wheel while the other watches what happens at the ball joints.

 

So if the ball joint shows any signs of loose movement, that would be considered bad? I'll take a look at that tomorrow first thing, thanks for the info.

 

This is what both side of the upper and lower ball joints look like:
Passenger side:


Driver side (the side that pulls and look like the upper ball joint is bad):

 

Good pictures, except you failed to show the drivers side lower one... Passanger side both upper and lower seem alright. The tie rods look good too. Cant tell about the drivers upper though.

Do you know the last time its been changed? Does it hold grease? It wouldnt hurt to change it if you cant remember or dont know. Do it before getting it aligned though. Easy enough job.

Did you try moving the tire and wheel back and forth? Make sure it is on a supported jack and jack stand before putting your hand under a tire and shaking a vehicle.

 

Sorry for the bad pics, was taken at 10pm so the lighting conditions were bad. Don't know when they were replaced but going to the dealer tomorrow to get them replaced both sides. But I'll test them tomorrow and see if I see any difference when I jack the truck up. Thanks for the info.

 

you mentioned a shot cv axle. when my cv axle went out i got mad vibrations from it at speed, as well as intermittent but strong and dangerous pulls to the left as it would bind during rotation (drivers side cv, btw) for $60 at autozone and 3 spare hours i fixed it and solved my pulling problems (as well as calmed my nerves cause when it pulled at 55 suddenly, i almost hit the concrete center divide as a result)

 

I have a donor CV axel waiting to be put in tomorrow once I get the ball joints from the dealer so that will be replaced too as well. Although, my axels were shot already for almost a year now and never had any problems til yesterday going over the rail road tracks.

 

it could be the jarring motion of going over the tracks knocked it, causing it to bind

wish the best of luck

 

I said GOOD pictures. A lot better than what most can manage even in daylight.

So your going to the dealer to get balljoints replaced but your doing the CV?

 

I meant no disrespect to the comment, I was commenting myself cause I normally take better pictures than that .
Yes, going to the dealer to get new ball joints and replacing the CV axel with a donor axel I already obtained. Besides, I think its time to change them out (ball joints).

 

Problem fixed. I didn't go to the dealer to grab the OEM ball joints cause I was disgusted with the price : $97 for each ball joint! I said for get it and ordered me a set of Moog ball joints online and a set of 1.5 BJ spacers.
What I ended up doing was taking out the bad CV Axel, which took me nearly 3.5 hours to do since it was my first time. I had to lower the lower A arm by taking out the bolts in order to release the broke CV. Got everything done but my next concern is that I might of messed with either the toe or the camber of my truck cause I noticed that the lower A arm was adjustable.
Anyhow, got done and took the truck for a 10 min drive....NO pulling to the left! YES! Everything is the way that it should be. Just need to get an alignment and have the toe or camber looked at. Thanks everyone for the much needed info to get my truck back on the pavement again !

 

This is too late to help you, but for others I will mention that you don't LOWER the lower arm to remove the half-shaft, you raise it. If the wheel is dangling (as it would if you have your jack stands under the frame), the angle is wrong and the half-shaft won't come out without major disassembly. If you raise the wheel (I put a jack under the rotor and lift until the weight just comes off the nearest jack stand), the half-shaft will come right out. You don't have to remove control arms or ball joints or the studs in the mating shaft on the differential.

Others may disagree. But I prefer less disassembly to more.