Bought the truck almost a year ago and it didnt last long.blew the front/rear ring and transmission. Ive decided to do some "preventive" maintenence and just go all out.

already done with the rear axle, chromoly shafts, 5.29 nitro gears, new springs in the detroit hard locker, wheel bearings and seal

next step is to pull the motor and put a gasket/seal master kit in it,new water pump,radiator,p/s pump,oil pump,tranny.p/s.oil coolers,pull the bed, clean tank,new fuel pump, new master poly bushing kit and whatever else looks like it could go or is easier to get to while i have it apart

This truck has been a real PITA. the way i see it is she just needs some MAJOR tlc compared to the last guy who from what i can see never even greased a zerk

this truck will see what i would call light street use.8 miles once or twice a week to work and back on country roads.

any input would be much appreciated. i know chevy pretty well but this is my first yota

 

Gettin the cherry picker tomorrow should have the motor out tom night.ill find the rest of the pics from the axle rebuild then

anyone messed with the dual remote oil filter kits they got on jegs? or is it pointless on a rig like this?

tryin to get all the parts i want/need straight before i go to order everything

 

ended up pulling the tranny and xfer case, i know the toyota transmissions are long but the th350 doesnt leave any room to work in there.

What i've found so far..
just about all of the manifold bolts were finger tight, no exhaust man. gaskets, every gasket and external seal is leaking,power steering pump was about to fall off and evidence of a leaking head gasket. at this point im glad i took it out. no more surprises










pics of the axle asm. had to helicoil all the holes in the housing.dont know how you manage to strip all of them






gettin a motor stand tonight and will get more detailed pics up tomorrow. from what i could see underneath the cylinders still have a good amount of cross hatch left but then again thats from the oil pan up we'll see when i get the heads off later tonight

 

Well.. my buddy is usein his stand so i gotta go buy one. 2 hours to the closest harbor freight.
found scuffed lower rod bearings and mains and heat damage on the pitsons. 6 sticky lifters hangin open and 8 out of 12 valves are leaking. glad i found this crap now instead of out in the trails.

so new game plan.

hot vat and flux head,block,intake,oil pan-100
valve job(if not cracked)- 100
Reman heads(if cracked)- (180)
Bore .030 - 65
RPM machine engine overhaul kit
w/ cam, lifters, high volume oil pump- 630

Motor overhaul $895
w/ reman heads $975
plus spider kit 250
Plus everything in op +600
plus monster built th350 trans/converter + 1100

Total $2925

and maybe ill get a painless harness to replace the magled stock one. but another 500 hurts O.0

 

I like this. Great way to keep her alive.

stock exhaust manifolds dont use gaskets, just clean the surfaces and crank em down

 

thought they came with the kit? good to know/look into though.

everytime i turn a wrench on this truck i think "i would done this better" only so many times you can say that before you a. sell it or b.tear it down and start from scratch.

even the smallest bits of input/help is appreciated y'all

just found a wiseco forged piston/rings kit for 350 :/ oh the posibilities.gotta draw the line somewhere. considering that it was double that for the 619 big bore in my fzr600...

 

Some people run them. But most say they will just blow out and give you big leaks.

I see to many yotas being sold right now, so i like the fact that you are taking the time and money to redo things.

 

wanted one of these since i was about 15. chevy motor and everything. finaly got it

 

everything i know about motors come from rebuilding r1s, gsxrs and dozens of 250 two stroke race bikes so what i find to be bad may not be the case in the auto world. the rebuild is happenin anyways but if y'all see some that is "normal" let me know for future reference.
that is if anyone is readin this 0.o



matching scuffs on all pistons.


lower rod bearings.1-6 left to right


mains. not as bad but def have some debris and a few are gettin thin.





got to lookin at the wire harness. its muffed up pretty good. no tape just 40 zipties. free hangin solenoids







is it better to go poly or stock for bushings? everything squeaks and both side c.a. are goin out


and id say this is bad O.0 that was a hell of a bang


this guy didnt even check his lugs.. missing 6 or so all the way around and then there is this

all i've found about the wheels is that they are eagle. thats it. havent done much searching but it would be nice to get a spare and replace thisun.


this build made possible by skoal straight and bud light.

 

Looks good. Plans for that wiring harness?

Thats ifs front end isn't going to hold up to those heavy tires and 4.3 for long.

 

Ive done alot of dirtbike road legal conversions so if i end up deciding not to buy a painless kit i should be able to handle it with a diagram. i would much rather just buy one

And as far as the ifs. this truck has been like this since 96 as far as i know and yeah its about shot. i was thinkin about gettin rid of the lift and doin a long travel kit.maybe blazeland. but i can just get a sas in there for the same money so thats the goal. maybe next year lol i noticed the control arms ar level with the frame/lift member. is that normal? i wouldnt think so. it has 0 flex upwards how it is so i def gotta go throught it. new ball joints tie rods and bushings. just got a new pitman arm on it.toook a whole can of map gas and a BIG hammer. got me a workout doin that.

i figured the motor was step one w/ the smoke and knock when hot. the trans i have now will hold up for a little bit but if work keeps goin the way it is the monster is goin in with the rebuilt motor
for now im tryin to find a reputable machine shop that isnt in downtown dallas(2.5 hours away) to get the rebuild movin

any red river texas guys out there got any suggestions on a shop? just called one in whitewright he wants 600 to bore and flux the block and recut the heads. thougt that was a little steep knowin that city motors in dallas does it for around 230. that includes hot vat for the pan and intake as well

 

still waitin to get paid :/ 1 problem workin in a family buisness i guess

started lookin at the wire harness. it looks terrible but once i got to cleanin and tapin/solderin wires, its nothing a 12pack and a few rolls of wire loom cant fix..

now for the motor.
the crank fell over sometime last week so its been layin on its side :/ crap. reman is gonna be about 220 not horrible but i was hopin i could use the oem.
finnaly got a parts list for the inards. gonna go ahead an do roller rockers, 350 windage tray mod, and the cam galley splash tray just to get a little power and reliability out of her. looked into a cam but from what im readin the 92-94 cpi motor has a surprisingly agressive cam stock so screw it.

i've been askin a few dirt track guys i know out here about the shop out here and it looks like he specializes in high performance motors so i guess ill pay a few exta bucks for good work.

so HOPEFULLY next week ill be able to order the overhaul kit and maybe rods and take the block/heads to him and get the ball rollin.

kit w/ highflow/pressure pump 660
block bored .040 decked and ready for assembly 350
head work if i dont need any valves 200


for now im gonna take it as i can on the motor and focus on finishin the interior. got it sanded, tar gone,primed and ready for monstaliner kit next time the weather gets right
still need to get/make a dash cover, headliner and figure out what im gonna do for tint. l shouldnt be more than 100 if i do the rest myself. those springs in the headliner make this a little easier lol

 

oh yea..
measured ring end gap
top ring std .010-.020 limit ..030
all were between .028-.032
2nd rind std .015-.025 limit .035
all between .032-.036
so yea. witht he way i drive no way it would of made it another year without burnin more oil then gas