Well I just installed my new inchworm T-case with 4.70 gears to my crawler box and put it all back in the truck. the guy from inchworm who took my order didnt write my order up correctly, so he didnt send the twin stick with the T-case that is set up for twin stick. I called and complained how I have had nothing but bad service from them. getting no emailed copy of the sales invoice, not tracking number ect. anyways, the twin stick is on the way but in the mean time I had to but my other stock shifter into the t-case. the T-case goes in and out of high and low but for some reason I cannot get it to go into 4WD. is this because I dont have the correct shifter to move the rails independently?

 

If the case is modified for twin stick, then you'll need two sticks to operate it fully. One stick for hi/lo, one stick for 2wd/4wd.

 

Yep. If set up for twin stick you need the twin stick for it to work correctly. One stick does Hi/N/Lo and the other does 2wd/4wd.

:wabbit2:

 

Yup twin stick came and all works as it should but somethings still screwed up in the front end.

 

All they do in the case is to pull the interlock pill that prevents 2L operation. I pulled that part on my cases years ago (had them out, best time to do that) and have been running a standard shifter since then. Ultimately I do plan on twin (or triple) sticking the cases, but it works 100% normal for now. Only thing to watch for is to manually shift the rails into 4H before putting the shifter in place.

 

Got my twin stick installed and all is working great

 

Question? A twin stick case allows you to go into low without spinning the front driveshaft, am I correct? And pulling the interlock pin on a standard does what exactly? With manual hubs it doesn't make a difference because you can just not lock them. Am I thinking correctly?

 

Yep, essentially gives you 2L (plus 2H, 4H and 4L)

Removes the pin that prevents the low range shift unless you are in 4WDL
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/twin_stick/



Same thing, just do it from the driver's seat while driving rather than stopping and getting out to unlock the hubs.

 

^Ah, very helpful thanks. How then are you running it with the pin out and only one shifter? Are you stuck(so to speak) in 4 wheel drive?

 

let me see if I can help:
-1 shift rail is for Hi - Lo and is physically on the driver side (shifter pushed to the passenger side)
-1 shift rail is for 2wd - 4wd and is physically on the passenger side (shifter pulled towards driver)
-when you move the shifter front-to-back, you're only moving 1 rail
-when you push or pull the shifter to either side you change which rail you're moving, leaving the original rail in the last place it was at

So, if I have this right you can pull the pin and shift normally between 2hi and 4 hi, but unless you remembered to pull the hi-lo rail back to "hi" you won't be able to move the shifter over to shift into 4lo. Is this about right? I'm really interested because I might go twin stick but before I can do that I need to yank the trans for a re-bearing - this way I can pull the pin and have it all set without having to yank it again if (when) I actually get the twin stick.

 

Shift just normal w/o the interlock pin. Only real gotcha is you have to manually push both rails into 4H, then stab the end of the shifter into the aligned forks on the two rails. Note that I do not have "2H" in this setup with one stick, but some folks have ground down the end of the shifter to allow it to pop out of the 2/4 rail into the H-L rail to affect a single "twin stick" mode. I have dual cases, so automatically have a 2L range with the front case.

 

Ya that's what I was thinking, it makes sense to me. Though it would seem that you would be able to move the shifter off of one rail and fish around for the other rail if the pin was removed and the rails were in different positions. For example; say one is in high (stick down) and the other is in 2 wheel (stick up), if the pin is removed would you be able to move the shifter to the passenger side and find the rail in high and move it down to low?

 

That is what I mentioned with grinding down the end of the shifter, there is a thread or two on Pirate4x4.com about that. But if you just follow the normal shifting pattern 2H-4H-N-4L, the only place the two shift forks line up is in 4H and that is where you move from 2-4 over to H-N-L. If you do pop out of one rail in other than 4H, you'll not have the end of the shifter in the fork on the other side, so won't be able to move that rail. I think on mine, I can't pop out of the rails out of 4H, so there is not enough clearance to do that, at least on my case.

 

Oh, so you do have to do more than just remove the pin to get a single stick to act like a twin. So with your setup one case does 4 to 2 effectually and the other does hi to low?

 

Ok so the pin is spring loaded and holds lo-hi in hi until you shift into 4?

 

Yes, some options over on Pirate4x4:
- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...in+stick+grind
- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ter+twin+stick

Or I recall one thread (can't find it now) that involved grinding down the end of the shifter so it was small enough to slip out of one rail to get into the other rail. Seems like that would involve some delicate shifter movement to find your way in and out of the shift rails.


No, with dual cases (technically 1.5 cases) the front half-case is only the reduction box (H-L) and then the rear full case is like normal, 2H-4H-N-4L. With the separate reduction box up front, that one can be shifted into high or low range regardless of 2WD or 4WD in the rear case:


My ultimate plan is to move the rear shifter up in line with the front shifter with linkage back to the rear case for a triple stick setup, 2 sticks for H-L and one stick for 2-4.

 

Yep, going into 4H pushes the pin out of the H/L rail to let you move it.

 

OK I get it. I'm going to have to take my transfer case apart some time and look at it. how do you have two shifters for hi/lo?

 

Wait... so you would have a twin setup for the rear case except one shifter is up by the other one via a linkage and the other is still in the back, right?

 

Don't really have to take the case apart although easier with case out of vehicle;

Remove plug:





And you can see that the two forks/slots only align in 4H, here in 2H, you could not pop out of the 2-4 fork to even try to get to the H-L fork:



Un-pin fork and slide rail clear:





Interlock pin:



Removed: