So i recently bought a truck, a 87 22ret single cab toyota. i have a build thread going
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...thread-221898/.

SO, the gearing is mixed match, my friend owned it before me, he told me the front hopped. i really dont wanna pull the 3rd memebers because its alot of work. i really havent gotten to drive it, the motor blew up. When i did drive it tho it binded up in 4x4. NOT GOOD HA. So the trucks on 35s with a straight axle swap. Ive read around that to find out the gear ratio on open gears you dont let one tire spin, then spin the other tire and count the revolutions of the driveline, and you spin the tire twice.

*I did this and heres what i came up with
For the front i came up with
2=4:45 (2tire revolutions, 4.45 driveline revolutions)

For the Rear i came up with
2=4:25 (2tire revolutions, 4.25 driveline revolutions.
1/2 tire spins=1 drive line revolution.

So what does my results mean like what gearing would that represent like 4.25=like 4:10s? and 4.45= like ?

 

4.30s and 4.56s. That's as close to those numbers as you're gonna get. 4.10s would be just barely more than 4 revs of the driveshaft, not 4 and 1/4. The only gears near 4.45 are 4.56s. There's nothing available in between 4.30s and 4.56s, for 79-95 Toyota axles. Wrong, I forgot 4.38s. But they're extremely rare, they only came on 79-80 4x4 PUs.

 

so i need to re gear my rear end, ill eventually pull both and double check but for now its more like one of those curiousity things ha. would 4.30s and 4.56s explain the wheel hopping so defently my front end is defently probly geared higher? im really hoping i have to re gear the rear so i can threw a locker in their.

 

If you've been running 4WD with mismatched gear sets in your diffs something bad is going to happen.

2WD it doesn't matter. Take the front dshaft off and regear.

:wabbit2:

 

what could happen if its ran in 4x4 could it blow up the transfer case lol im not going do it just wondering once its running re gearing is gonna be the first thing.

 

You are more likely to blow up one of the diffs, but yes you could damage the tcase. With different gearing, you are essentially tensioning the whole drivetrain like a spring front to back. Eventually that tension needs to be released. Either the tires will hop, or you'll snap a gear somewhere in the drivetrain. With larger heavier tires, you are much more likely to snap a gear than hop the tires.

 

Thats what i would do, re-gear the rear cause your front ratio is lower and the rear is alot easier job than the front. i would go with a spool or weld the rear end i have had way to many problems with lockers like the EZ locker or the lockright and who doesnt like the sound of squeeling tires also i dont think there should be any problems with your t-case or anything like that as long as the tires were hopping and there were no loud pops or bangs. Keep On Wheelin

 

I have to disagree with ^^^^ I would stay away from a spool or welded rear end. When my dad bought his '91 it had a spool in the rear, worst drive home I'd ever had tires chirped on every corner and it's not really good on your tires either. I had a Detroit tru trac in my 4runner it was more of a limited slip type of deal worked GREAT I plan on putting one in my pickup when I regear as well. Just my .02

 

Fair enuf. I guess it depends on what you do with and how hard you wheel and if you can put up with the pops and bangs that the lunchbox lockers are associated with. And yes a spool does eat your tires a bit but its not that bad if you do a 5 tire rotation if you have a fullsize spare, and if you read the recomended tire sized for the lockright style of locker they do not recomend 35" or larger tires, so if u have 35s and a heavy foot he is going to have problems after a year of good wheelin, plus no little moving parts like the lockright your ring gear is basicly mounted right to your axles with a spool. and a spool only cost about $150 instead of $350 or $450. just my 2 cents for what its worth

 

Solution, keep it easy on the skinny.
My lockrights (Front and rear) have held up fine for the past year on 33's and the past few months on 35's.

So, 150 for the spool and then the cost of gear setup? That puts you right back at $350+.

 

A spool may save you a few hundred bucks, but if you're DDing your rig, you're going to be spending a heck of a lot more than that on tires.

 

True it all depends on what your doin with your rig. If its purely off road a spool may be the way to go but if its something you'll be driving regularly on road it may not be the best route. And the only locker I've had personally is the Detroit tru trac previously mentioned, it didn't make any "pops or bangs" at all you never knew it was there till you started to spin out and it caught giving you some traction.