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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 01:07 PM
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From: Moyock,NC
Oil Leak take a look.

I notice something was up when I saw this.

Then I looked and saw this. I thought it was coming from the seal on the crank shaft inside the oil pump but I guess not.

It looks like it's coming from the water pump?? Why would oil leak from these? Is the seal bad?


What do you guys think??

After looking at it a second time. Could it be that the oil pump seal is bad and it's slinging oil on the water pump and other stuff?

Last edited by richf; Dec 30, 2010 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 01:42 PM
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From: Vian, OK
i say oil pump seal is bad and slinging oil everywhere, clean the motor well and check it again
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 01:44 PM
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From: way way nor cal
Front main seal or o ring seal in oil pump.
Like camo said, the spinning of the motor, belts etc. makes it look like it's coming from some mystery spot. In the photo you posted of the underbelly of the oil pump you can clearly see where fresh oil has made a trail down to the pan.
I would clean everything and then take a look.
If it is the front seal I would make sure to check the pulley where the seal is and see if there is a visible groove worn into it. If so you need to sleeve it and get an seal from the dealer.

Last edited by toyospearo; Dec 30, 2010 at 01:48 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 02:29 PM
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Thanks dudes. Toyo are you talking about grooves worn into the crank shaft or the seal? Also I just replaced the front end with the engine builder kit. I'm hoping it's something with the oil pump seals.

Last edited by richf; Dec 30, 2010 at 02:40 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 02:38 PM
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I forgot to ask. Does the timing cover have to come off when you replace the oil pump seal?
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by richf
I forgot to ask. Does the timing cover have to come off when you replace the oil pump seal?
no it does not
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 02:57 PM
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The counter ballence pully will be your bigest challenge.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Buck87
The counter ballence pully will be your bigest challenge.
are you talking about busting the nut and removing it?
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by richf
Thanks dudes. Toyo are you talking about grooves worn into the crank shaft or the seal? Also I just replaced the front end with the engine builder kit. I'm hoping it's something with the oil pump seals.
Yes. Where the seal lives it eventually starts to wear a grove all around the shaft and oil starts to slip by the seal through the worn grove and out onto the exterior of the oil pump. You can either find a new pulley assembly with no grove or sleeve the old one. If you don't do anything and replace the seal you can buy a later seal for a 22re. The diameter is thinner and depending on where the grove is the thinner 22re seal with sit just ahead of the grove hence no more oil leak. That takes a bit of figuring but it is easier and cheaper than sleeving it.
On the 20 and 22r this is a common problem only because they are older and have seen more wear.

Last edited by toyospearo; Dec 30, 2010 at 03:23 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by richf
are you talking about busting the nut and removing it?
yes sir This link to 4crawlers site will explain the starter motor method.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
Have not actually used this method my self because I had the engine out of the vehicle when I had to do it.

Last edited by Buck87; Dec 30, 2010 at 03:28 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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ya that's what I used last time it's easy to take off.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:47 AM
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I have an Oil leak issue as well I think it's the oil pan gasket but it might be something else as well. I took some pictures...I can't get my oil pan off though due to it being STUCK because of the old gasket...it's pretty tight on there...




I was also wondering if bolts like this are common for the oil pan. There are two but one decided to just let the nut come out and the threaded piece stay in place...thinking of replacing it...with something easier to use.

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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:14 AM
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That's not a bolt. It's a stud with a nut on it. And yes, they're there for a reason. They put one in the middle on each side to help keep the pan aligned, and held in place by the nuts, while you put the bolts in. It's alot easier to hold the pan up and loosely thread those nuts on, than having to put a couple of bolts in to hold it there instead. I'd suggest you leave them as the were.


On the stuck gasket, use a paint scraper or a putty knife.

Last edited by MudHippy; Jan 31, 2011 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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From: Humboldt, CA
Originally Posted by MudHippy
That's not a bolt. It's a stud with a nut on it. And yes, they're there for a reason. They put one on each side to help keep the pan aligned, and held in place by the nuts, while you put the bolts in. It's alot easier to hold the pan up and loosly thread those nuts on, than having to put a couple of bolts in to hold it there instead. I'd suggest you leave them as the were.


On the stuck gasket, use a paint scraper or a putty knife.
Ty sir.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 11:10 AM
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From: Humboldt, CA
No luck atm with the oil pan.
Probably go at it tomorrow some time since I have class tomorrow and need to do some work. I'm installing sway away torsion bars as well if anyone knows where I should start on those. I am not a mechanic and well I've only taken AT101. Little to no knowledge about cars in general.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 12:42 PM
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hey buddy i had a similar oil situation with my 22re where it looked like it was leaking over by the water pump/alternator area. It ended up being the valve cover gasket. I would also check by the distributor where it slides in to the head and the area where the timing cover meets the head.

What was happening was there was a tiny trickle of oil that would run down all those brackets holding the ps pump and on to the alternator. it eventually took a toll on the alt and i had to replace that too. clean everything up real good and stand there and watch for any leaks while its running. careful not to get your hand caught in the fan.

Last edited by blackyota4x4; Jan 31, 2011 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 02:34 PM
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From: Humboldt, CA
Originally Posted by blackyota4x4
hey buddy i had a similar oil situation with my 22re where it looked like it was leaking over by the water pump/alternator area. It ended up being the valve cover gasket. I would also check by the distributor where it slides in to the head and the area where the timing cover meets the head.

What was happening was there was a tiny trickle of oil that would run down all those brackets holding the ps pump and on to the alternator. it eventually took a toll on the alt and i had to replace that too. clean everything up real good and stand there and watch for any leaks while its running. careful not to get your hand caught in the fan.
I already drained all the oil since I was going to do the oil pan any ways. I was debating about replacing a lot of stuff since all this seems like a pain to do anyways so I'm thinking about just stripping the cover and other parts. Maybe doing a partial rebuild or something I don't know. I have a credit card...so tempted to use it and do all this myself.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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MY problem ended up being a groove worn into the crank shaft pulley from the oil pump seal. I used a speedy sleeve to fix and a new oil pump seal. Cost like $15 at the most.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 05:18 PM
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There are 16 bolts and 2 nuts (on studs) on my 22re oil pan. If you came up with less than that then that could be why the pan is stuck. Dont use a cork gasket.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 05:45 PM
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From: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
Originally Posted by richf
are you talking about busting the nut and removing it?
Originally Posted by Buck87
yes sir This link to 4crawlers site will explain the starter motor method.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml




Good posting. Quick, simple, to the point, and not open to conjecture or conversation.
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