it currently has a 4.5 inch body lift. i believe it to be a 5ish inch leaf spring lift kit. with 35's on it. and of course im wanting more.

so i got this idea. the shackles that bolt in between the frame and the leaf springs. i was thinking of fabing up some bigger ones, longer and stronger maybe get 1 or 2 inches of lift. but im not sure if it would effect the suspension in a negative way.

also if anyone has ideas or know of a better lift kit i'd love to hear about it.

 

Shackle lift gives half of what the increased amount is ie: 2" longer shackle = 1" lift. But the shackle lift will change the pinion angle so you could wind up with driveline issues. There is a formula that will guessetamate the pinion angle change I don't have it bookmarked on this machine so perhaps someone else will post up. Might be on 4crawlers site and you should also read the driveline 101 on 4crawlers site.

 

ok on pinion angle went i put my rear axle on i tilted it back a little bit to get a better angle on the driveline. it was just a few degrees. but by doing that could i have caused some problems?

 

Depending on the truck, you might consider a 2" body lift. Its alot easier to work on rigs with bodylifts, and you can lift the drivetrain with the body and get rid of the low point from the trans crossmember.
then sliders can be mounted well, as well as a rear bumper.

 

i got the body lift covered 4.5 inches. and that reminds me i got a problem with that i need brake line exstention for the front, are there kits for this?

 

this might just be me but i think 4.5 inches of body lift is too much. thats just my input though

 

x2

 

x3...


Seems like the old stand-by is a lift, and the biggest tires you can put under it.



What's so hard about explaining traction diffs and open diffs to ppl?

I personally like to drive my vehicles and get some MPG out of them... I mean, that's why I bought the dern thing...

oh well...

 

I agree ^^^^ still have not heard any good things about a body lift. Unless its for looks only. "just what ive heard"

 

I used to have a 6in body lift, but decided that was to dangerous and just to much lift for the body. so im looking to get a few more inches elsewhere.

and replying to Yotabota17. those lift blocks are kinda big and can cause some bad axle wrap

 

why do you need more lift? What size tires are you planning on running? I'm guessing your 35s are clearing easily with your 5" TG lift plus the massive body lift. I would bring the body lift down to 2". You'll still clear the 35s, and if you need to clear something bigger, just take a sawzall to it.

 

for one 35 are just to move it around. it will go up to 44's and im not choping it up, i dont have new pic up yet but the body work done to the truck is too good and lots of work. and i need more lift because that what i want. two to just tower over everyone else on the street.

now my other 86 Toyota i have will have just a suspenion lift to clear 33s to 35s nothing extreme. be built on more the reasonible accounts.

 

44s for street use? OK. Go for it.

 

First to take my shot at answering your questions:

1. Modifying shackles CAN cause problems if not done correctly, they are designed to pivot in just such a fashion, of which I can't recall what it is off the top of my head. Some searching on shackle lifts ought to turn up the issues.

2. Shackles and blocks are the only other ways to add lift other than springs and body lift, which you already have.

One other item I'll point out in the most friendly way possible, what is "good" or "works" on one truck may not be so good on another. You need to ask yourself what your goal is for the truck. If its looks your after and don't care how it will do on the trail, throw some 6" blocks under the springs and put your 44s on. If you want to actually get down a trail without breaking axles and rolling over, stick to those 35's and get that body back down to 2" or so like others have said.

I run 33's with no body lift, some tweak on stiffer torsion bars and 3.5" blocks with no rubbing. I also have the lowest center of gravity possible on 33's and don't have to worry about flipping the truck over every time I turn a corner.

Point being is you need to know what you want the truck to do and include that with your question otherwise you get the shotgun response you got here.

 

Good ol' red-neck injuneering.

 

Shoot man, I mean, danged ol'...

Michelin has a 52" tar? 44's are too 80's. Where you been at man?

 

wow man. have fun with those 44's lol

 

1st: Welcome to Yotatech- a website populated by numerous highly knowledgeable, experienced fabricators, suspension tuners, off-road drivers, mechanical and electrical engineers, and mechanics. Of course, there are also people like me! Choose who you listen to, which leads me to point number 2.

2nd: Some excellent advice has been given. I think you would find that on a trail, your almost stock rig with 33's will probably perform comparably to the stomper on foty-fos, if not significantly better than it on certain portions of trail.
Of course, if you are going to keep the truck on 33s for trail, and use Bigfoot for a commuter, mall stomper, then that is a different matter, and we will want to see pics and build specs on the other truck. The only time when what you are describing might be useful, is mud bogging, where trucks on huge tractor tires are jacked way up in the air, equipped (typically) with huge engines, and then drive REALLY REALLY FAST into a pit of mud. Not my cup-o-tea, but if that is what you are after, then rock on.

Give us lots of pics, and we will typically be happy. Think your build through. I can't see from your avitar pic if the truck is IFS or SFA, and that will have some significant impact on what you are doing.

You might consider throwing some brief specs in a signature (look under user CP) so that viewers can see what you are running.

I hope we didn't scare you off. Welcome to the freak show.

MC

 

This thing sounds like a death trap. Have any pictures of the truck?

are you planning on running 44s on the ifs? plans on gearing?

 

Seriously. If you hit something hard your body is probably not going to stay attached to the frame. Plus the sheer leverage on those bolts is well inside the ridiculous range. Sooner or later the pucks will punch through your body. You should really lower that lift to a 2-3" at most, and even that is pushing it IMO.

Yes, you better throw some Dana 60s under there or something because it's not going to take long to snap those twigs with 44s. Even 37s are pushing it on Toyota axles. If you're keepinf IFS you're really asking for broken axles with anything over 35s. This rig does in fact sound ike a death trap to me. You may want to consider your options before going through with your plans.