Finally getting close to doing the swap. I've been mainly a lurker on this site for a few years now. Figured I'd try to document the swap and share the info here since this site has been a wealth of info on this swap.

I bought this wreck about 6 years ago and sat on it because of other different projects. 2wd automatic with the dreaded EGR system which I'm hoping to remove.



The recipient is a 4x4 excab. I've been collecting parts for the last few months. So far I've got a 5-speed 3.0 r150, oil pan baffle dip stick from a 3.0, manual ECU from a 98 4x4 Tacoma. Tomorrow I'm picking up a trans crossmember.

I'm finally to this point. Out of the wreck on a stand.




Powder coated the pan at work. Had a hell of a time getting the plug out for the 3.0 dip stick. Tomorrow I'm going to machine a press in adapter for the dip stick guide.

I have a flywheel coming in the mail. Next on the list is figuring out what clutch to get, a supercharger is a future upgrade. I don't want a heavy pedal though. Is a OEM 3.4 clutch good enough.

I was also wondering if I should replace the timing belt/water pump while the engine is out? Would like to not spend the $ if its not necessary. It only has 40k miles. The belt looks really good IMO along with all the other rubber parts for sitting in the desert for 6 years.

 

If you plan on going to the BAR referee the EGR system will have to remain with the engine. All emission devices from the donor must be on the recipient vehicle.

 

I've heard conflicting reports on this. Some people say the ecu determines the emissions. I need to talk to the ref on this one. The ref you went through sounds pretty strict. Some people are still getting away with driver side exhaust drops. I may call around and talk to a few different refs.

I have don't really care leaving the egr on. Its the fact that the 4x4 ecu wasn't set up for egr that worries me. A manual 2wd ecu is harder to source.

 

That is correct. If you go in with the ECU from the donor you will need the EGR system. If you swap ECUs like it sounds like you will, a heads up on early year 3rd gen 4Runners is they use different cats than Tacomas, and there are no California legal aftermarket cats for them, OEM only.

As far as the driver side exhaust configuration, some refs "look the other way" when it comes to this, and they tend to be in rural or semi-rural areas (desert, Northern California, etc..).

 

Is there a list of referee's somewhere on the ca bar website. I'm willing to drive if I can find someone who is lenient on the exhaust issue. Doing the exhaust once would be a huge plus.

As far as emission parts this wreck is complete with all oem parts.

 

No list. You'll call the number on the website to make your appointment and they'll give you three or four refs to pick from that you can go to based on the program area your vehicle is registered in. Being in Costa mesa, three of your choices are Golden West College, Fullerton Junior College, and Riverside (whatever community college is there). Don't remember what the fourth choice was.

 

I think I'll worry about the smog stuff later, going to be weeks before I'm ready to drop the motor in. I'm still in the nickel and dime stage on parts right now.

 

Well my work is closed for the week after Christmas so we made room in the shop to pull the truck in. I planned on getting a lot of pictures but my camera stopped working. I found the shop camera and got a few shots before it died. I'm a little further along from these pics.

This is mocked up with the trans no clutch for motor mounts. Got the motor almost tape measure perfectly centered.




Motor mounts. This was the easiest I could think of. I had to eliminate that driverside coil-over support because of exhaust manifold clearance.



I had no reference of oil pan-diff clearance, so I gave it about 5/16-3/8ish clearance. All these pictures are before final weld. In this pic its about 1/2. I could fit my middle finger between the pan/diff.




Motor mounts all welded up today. Got the motor in tonight with the clutch and oem crossover on. If I can get a camera going I'll get some more pics up. The passenger side exhaust drop is going to be a pain in the ass.

 

deyzin, I have a 97 2wd manual ECM that I am not using. If you are interested just PM me.

 

Got a few shots of the passenger side exhaust. Down pipe didn't fit so well, had to beat the crap out of it to fit. Borrowed the clutch slave from a buggy project thats stalled at the moment.

 

thats a great idea of modifyin the throw out fork and moving the slave cylinder. It could give enough room for headers possibly.

 

It runs. The wiring was pretty easy with the right EWDs and all the help off the forum to maneuver around and find where everything is.

It has a slight high idle but is not throwing any codes. Using the 3.4 cable with plenty of slack idle screw has no effect. Pretty sure its not a vacuum leak, hoses are all solidly connected. I'm thinking its an IAC problem. Would air in the coolant line cause a problem? At start up it seems normal but a minute later it goes up to 1300ish rpm.

Other issues
It looks like its going to be another $250 to get the drive shaft extended before I can drive it. The local wrecker doesn't have one. The extra costs and hassles from going from a 22re is a bummer.
I'm having a hell of a time bleeding the clutch system. Going to pull the master clean it and bench bleed it. Probably end up getting a new one. More $$$
Need to redo the steering shaft. My brilliant idea of lowering the engine a smidge to clear the hood just made the alternator get in the way of the rag joint majorly.

Other than that it felt good when it started right up.

 

Any more info on this? I picked up a 98-ish 3.4 to replace my 84's dead 22R... what did you do for all the wiring fun?

>>Dan

 

Its running and driving. Passed all the smog stuff with no issues. Today I swapped the exhaust crossover to the driver side. The wiring was pretty easy, all the info on how to go about it are all over this forum.