Trouble replacing harmonic balancer / 90 p/u
#1
Trouble replacing harmonic balancer / 90 p/u
I have an 1990 4x4 pickup with 22Re engine. I'm trying to install a new harmonic balancer and having a difficuly time putting it back on the crank shaft. I believe I have the key matched up with the groove. It slides on just a little ways, but then won't budge. Not on far enough for the crank shaft bolt to catch. Any suggestions?
#3
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
I got a new one once that was machined wrong.
It should be snug but not to the point of having to beat it on .
Wrong size key?? key slot on new balancer not broached to the correct depth .
Wrong part in correct box??
is there any type of burr on either parts .look where the key enters the pulley
Your not trying to put this together dry??
It should be snug but not to the point of having to beat it on .
Wrong size key?? key slot on new balancer not broached to the correct depth .
Wrong part in correct box??
is there any type of burr on either parts .look where the key enters the pulley
Your not trying to put this together dry??
#4
Hey Arakis, ....welcome to Yotatech!
I not only had a lil struggle getting the crank pulley assembly back on.... I had trouble getting the old Harmonic away from the other 2 pulley piece, lol. Bolts weren't too cooperative, either. Anyway, like mentioned above... Did you lube it lightly before sliding it on?
Another thing that's really important... Did you replace the key? If you did, it's usually a lil snug and takes a lil gentle tapping to get into the crank... They're not meant to just sloppily drop in there without needing some coaxing. If you did use a new key, it might just need a couple light taps with a piece of hard wood like mine did. Then, I did have to tap it on like Myyota said, ...and about half way on(lil over that), it just slid right on there without too much pressure.
From everything I've ever read and dealt with when putting in new keys and harmonics(on other motors)... they've always been snug. If there was any slop, well, you'd get what you can see in my build thread. A key that almost shaved off, ...only 1/16" MAX left before it snapped right off and blew my motor bad.
I not only had a lil struggle getting the crank pulley assembly back on.... I had trouble getting the old Harmonic away from the other 2 pulley piece, lol. Bolts weren't too cooperative, either. Anyway, like mentioned above... Did you lube it lightly before sliding it on?
Another thing that's really important... Did you replace the key? If you did, it's usually a lil snug and takes a lil gentle tapping to get into the crank... They're not meant to just sloppily drop in there without needing some coaxing. If you did use a new key, it might just need a couple light taps with a piece of hard wood like mine did. Then, I did have to tap it on like Myyota said, ...and about half way on(lil over that), it just slid right on there without too much pressure.
From everything I've ever read and dealt with when putting in new keys and harmonics(on other motors)... they've always been snug. If there was any slop, well, you'd get what you can see in my build thread. A key that almost shaved off, ...only 1/16" MAX left before it snapped right off and blew my motor bad.
#5
Thanks for the posts. I was able to get it on with a little lube and light tapping. I replaced the oil pump and harmonic balancer and front seal. Still leaking heavily from what seems to be low front driverside. Can't figure out where it might be leaking from.
??
??
#6
I would bet that it's either;
1. Leaking through Block to cover surface toward bottom/driver side
2. Leaking from Cover to Pan surface along the seam
3. Leaking from inside one of the bolt channels in the cover, outward, after getting past cover seal/bolt area.(Just see my troubleshooting thread a bit back from the last post... IT CAN HAPPEN! lol).
4. Not sure if it's possible, but if that bolt that gets sealant, behind the timing mark ear on the oil pump, leaks, couldn't it leak to the driver side and down the cover and JUST APPEAR to be leaking from the pan or cover, instead?
Sorry to hear, man. Keep us informed.
1. Leaking through Block to cover surface toward bottom/driver side
2. Leaking from Cover to Pan surface along the seam
3. Leaking from inside one of the bolt channels in the cover, outward, after getting past cover seal/bolt area.(Just see my troubleshooting thread a bit back from the last post... IT CAN HAPPEN! lol).
4. Not sure if it's possible, but if that bolt that gets sealant, behind the timing mark ear on the oil pump, leaks, couldn't it leak to the driver side and down the cover and JUST APPEAR to be leaking from the pan or cover, instead?
Sorry to hear, man. Keep us informed.
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