Well im a poor college student with access to the school shop so thought i might as well build some with a twist. let me know what you think. compressed they are going to be right at 8inches long ~2in longer then stock and when disconected can extend to ~13.5inchs which is a bout 2in longer then needed. hopefully they will work out. Here are some picts, ran out of time tonight, gotta cut the outer tubes the right length, weld a stud on for the sway bar mount and tap a hole for a zerk to grease it up. let me know what you think.

 

Cool idea. I think most people just take them off though.
Hope it works out though

 

Thats crazy enough that it just might work!
So.. Your going to just pull that pin and the inner tube will stay in the outer tube. Allowing full independent travel of the wheels. And then when your done just put the pin back in?

 

Yup!. I got $20 bucks in it. if they work it will be great. if they dont well then i tried.

 

Whats the difference between sway bar disconnects and just removing the sway bar without adding anything?

 

Um...well the away bar is still there...in the state of WA its ILLEGAL not to have a sway bar....

 

...sway...stupid phone...

 

Ah I see, I did not know that.

But how would they ever know you don't have a sway bar?

 

He he he, they'd know. Especially the cops here on the 20

 

how would they know a sway bar was on and then removed?

 

I'll ask my brother, the Oak Harbor police Lt.

 

Twitchee, OP.. I was thinking.. it might be a good idea to drill multiple holes in those to leave some room if you adjust the ride height.

 

got it covered. the hiem has a 1.5in shank on it, its just threaded all the way in right now. good call though.

 

DUH. Don't know why I didn't think of that.

 

never had any get harrassed for not having a sway bar... I would literally laugh at the cop.

But if you're paranoid just keep it in the raftors and stick it on when u drive the junk down to get the fix it ticket inspected. eh?

 

Nice design and thought but the problem I see is that release pin.
When the disconnect is together, the pin and tubes are going to have consent friction, metal to metal and will eventually fail.

 

this

the tube will not hold up as long
as the 'normal' quick disconnects you can get

 

Variable loading will disperse that pin on it's own. Use a pin with a retaining clip.

With the pin out during travel I'd imagine it's going to clank when it bottoms out, eventually busting.

:wabbit2:

 

a grease zerk might be a good idea and I agree with wabbit, does not look like there is any "uptravel" to it since the tube is topped out when the pin is in. Maybe make the outer sleeve shorter if you can enough to take up whatever uptravel you have till you hit the bump stops and have it still retain the inner rod. Not sure if that's gonna be possible though. Great idea however.

 

they way im designing it, do DD'ing there should be zero load on the pin when its under compression, the inner tube is going to be in contact with the with the outer tube. i agree that the pin is the weak link and i think im going to get differnt pins as well. they are currently cotter less hitch pins (has a ball that needs to be compressed to lock it in).

Im not sure how hard its going to hit when it bottoms out but when it does i should be taken up by the opposite side extending. maybe ill put a piece of old bushing in there to take up a little of the hit. but like i said i have $20 in this if it works like i hope great, if not well ill go back and see if i can fix it and it was worth a shot.