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NEWBIE Removing front rotors?

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Old May 31, 2010 | 11:55 AM
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dnoble1986's Avatar
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NEWBIE Removing front rotors?

I've got an 86 4 wheel drive and need to replace the front rotors. Problem is I have no idea how. Got the wheels off and the calipers now the rotors. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 12:07 PM
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www.ncttora.com/fsm

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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:55 PM
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you have figured this out I presume... there are holes for a bolt to be screwed in to "push" them out but if you are not saving the rotors then a rubber mallet works good to kind of 'beat' on them from the backside.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Helmuth
you have figured this out I presume... there are holes for a bolt to be screwed in to "push" them out but if you are not saving the rotors then a rubber mallet works good to kind of 'beat' on them from the backside.
Except to even get to that stage you have a whole lot of tearing down to do.

To OP, you need to pull the hub assembly apart. You NEED a 54mm socket to remove the axle nuts and reinstall them properly.

Follow the directions in the FSM closely.

It's not very difficult but it IS time consuming. Get used to the process as you should service your bearings after every time you submerge them as water always finds a way in =)
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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thanks for jumping in drew303. I was unaware on that gen all of that was needed. should have checked the wabbit link first. Just trying to be helpful for the newb and appreciate you teaching me something along the way, this is how I learn also.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by drew303
You NEED a 54mm socket to remove the axle nuts and reinstall them properly.

Someone else used a chisel on mine it looked like... Do i just used a hammer and punch on the huge nuts.. Not right.. but it worked
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 02:43 AM
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From: Olympia, WA
Originally Posted by whutface
Someone else used a chisel on mine it looked like... Do i just used a hammer and punch on the huge nuts.. Not right.. but it worked
Yea thats like the worse method in the world and ive seen it frist hand.

Without torqueing the nuts properly... torq, spin, spin opposite, untorque, repeat... finish torque..

the bearings dont seat properly (as the grease creates hydraulic pressure, which you do this process to relieve it to get a PROPER bearing preload)... to prevent premature bearing failure. Which is only amplified by water contamination.

Buy the cheap socket and save yourself 100 bucks in bearings.

I personally leave mine torqued at 42lb but i believe the general accepted method is to torque to 42, do the spin method, release, torque..repeat..then leave the final torque at 20lb?

I like leaving it at 42 and havent had any bearing failures with this.
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