Bleeder letting air into brake system under vacuum
#1
Bleeder letting air into brake system under vacuum
Been having trouble with pulling to the left when braking, just after replacing both front calipers. Tried bleeding all five valves again, noticed a slight gurgling sound and a little wobble on the bleeder valve on the passenger/front, with only a quarter turn of opening. Makes sense to me that that's where the air's getting in, especially when it pulls to the left.
Question: can I put some sort of teflon plumbers tape or something like that to get the valve to seal properly during bleeding? Will this contaminate the system? Any other "right" ways to fix it? It is brakes, after all...
TIA
Question: can I put some sort of teflon plumbers tape or something like that to get the valve to seal properly during bleeding? Will this contaminate the system? Any other "right" ways to fix it? It is brakes, after all...
TIA
#7
So, now that I have the attention of a few board Jedi's, I know Lump's idea is the most foolproof, I was just hoping to be able to pull the valve screw, throw some teflon on there, re-install and bleed. Probably a five minute job. Thoughts?
Trending Topics
#8
Brake fluid reacts with the teflon tape and eats it almost instantly... it kinda works when there is a ton of air in the system, but it compromises the tape really fast. If you want to try it clean off the bleeder really well before wrapping it.
#11
#12
Tried pressure bleeding (g/f pushing on the brakes while I open/close) and it helped, but there's still more drag on the left side than right. Barely noticeable, but there. Gonna run it for a few days to see what happens. No danger...
#14
That's a good point, forgot to mention. Rears are good. I'm pretty convinced it's all in the front, as it changed sides when I replaced the calipers. At first, it was so bad that I could "hear" the front/driver's tire grabbing harder (sand under the AT's with the windows down). Better now, but not fixed.
#15
Alright, I'm still not satisfied that I have a slight pull to the left. Unless anyone has some suggestions beyond bleeding the lines, I'm going to swap out the caliper on the right side. Not a big job, but if someone has an easier "try" to the problem, that'd be great.
#17
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_bleeding
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/DIY/brakebleed.htm
http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/teflon.htm
#18
You should also just take apart the right side to see what it looks like. If there's no wobbling feeling in the brake pedal, it's probably not the rotor. In that case, check if the pads are thin or oily, and pull the calipers and pop out the pistons to see if they're rusty or gummy.
#19
Brake lines are about a year old. Rotors are new. Calipers are rebuilds from Kragen's (just replaced). Pads are plenty thick, no oil.
Think I'm just gonna swap the right caliper. My spidey sense is tingling on that one...
Think I'm just gonna swap the right caliper. My spidey sense is tingling on that one...
#20
Bout time you quit messing about and just do it...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoqDY...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoqDY...eature=related
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FS[SouthEast]: Mercury Villager Fan & DCC Fan Controller
coryc85
Misc Stuff (Vehicle Related)
6
Sep 9, 2015 06:24 AM
skoti89
Offroad Tech
3
Jul 8, 2015 12:05 AM






