Recently blew my HG at 155k and decided to rebuild instead of selling it. I started this morning and got pretty far considering this is my first time being farther than the valve cover. Managed to break 2 water pump bolts and a couple clips, but nothing an ez-out and alot of patience cant fix. Also stripped the pulley bolt on my water pump... operator error.

Im not sure if im going to tackle the valves or just send it off... still trying to decide.

As of now im replacing-
Front main seal (if i can find it...)
Water Pump
T-stat
Plugs
Wires
Cap/Rotor
Head Gasket
Witchhunter Injector cleaning
Timing chain... (maybe.)

Anyways heres some pics of todays progress.

Leaky Cylinder

Head isnt all that bad

Had to take off the rad to drill bolts.

And my less than eager helper.

 

Glad to see you're fixing er.
Remember though the Tchains are lifetime part's on these motors. If anything I'd just change the tensioners / guides and call it good.

Good luck with it.

 

Anything i should do to prep the block besides scraping the gasket? i seem to have gotten it all off but it still looks pretty dirty.

 

Got the block and piston heads prepd, and the new water pump and tstat in.


The pistons look dirtier than they are, but its just a sheen of Royal Purple over the top

 

And were backtracking!

So last night when i torqued the WP down i ended up stripping one of the bolt holes.
That brings me to today where im trying to remove the timing chain cover so i can helicoil it, and this damn thing will not budge. Im not removing the oil pan, but i did unbolt it from the cover and took out all the bolts/nuts indicated in the FSM. It should just be held in by RVT but this thing wont give... Help!

 

i very lightly would wire wheel brush the block surface and make sure its clean of all oils grease before you throw the headgasket on.

 

Finally got the timing cover off. turns out the oil pickup tube holds it on inside the pan...

Cleaned it up a bit, then i need to find someone with an impact wrench to get the oilpump off. why why why would Toyota use philips heads?!!

And now im left with the oil pan... theres no way im taking off the front diff, and i dont think i can get it out without doing that so looks like i just scrape what i can from underneath.

 

I have an impact bit driver.

 

Yank it out and build it for boost.

So wish I would have had the money to build a 3RZ. Definitely the best way for massive power in these trucks...

 

why not just unbolt the engine mounts and jack up the motor to get to the pan.......

 

tyler, next week i'm not working if you want a hand bro.

 

I might do that, but i spent a good hour crawling around with a razorblade today and scraped most of the gasket so it may not be necessary.

Hopefully we can just go wheeling next week instead
Depends on if the machine shop gets it turned around by then or not, but i may need an extra set of eyes puttin in all back! I ended up using C&D machine right by Yota of Kirkland

 

huh.. never heard of them. Hey i'm down for whatever really. Just depends how much time i can cram into fishing.

 

Pulling the motor would of been your best bet. Makes it 10x easier to do all what your doing and just about gaurantee's a perfect oil pan seal!..

It's only a little bit more work to pull it. Worth it tho. I've done many timing chains, heads and other misc crap with the motor in, when it came time to do my own timing chain I pulled the motor, checked the clutch, new rear main seal, rear oil retainer seal, then ofcourse all new upfront.

I'm not familiar with the 3RZ but anythings easier on a engine stand =)

 

Got my injectors back from Witchhunter yesterday. Good guy with a nice little setup, very meticulous.
The head work is going to be about $700...
So with my last stop to the stealership today i should have all my parts and the total cost should end at about $1100. Should have it done in a week or so

 

$700 for head work?! Whats he doing it it!?

I had my head redone for $125, thats including a valve job.

 

Whaaat?! thats unheard of!

Hes cleaning it, resurfacing it, doing a valve grind, valve stem seals, and adjusting the shims. I was told by multiple people that that would be anywhere from 5-8 hundred.

Keep in mind the 2.7 is DOHC and is shimmed valves not hydraulic

 

Ok drew and vital, i finally found a cherry picker and picked up my motor and took out the pan. MUCH easier, youre both right.

Head gets back tuesday and i get my last order of parts in on monday so i can start getting it back together. Toyota FIPG is a black gooey monster from hell. I ended up bouncing the pan off my head with it on there and it got in my hair and down my arms. I slept with a longsleve and gloves on so i didnt get it on the bed, had to wait for it to dry...

 

big day today.

I ended up breaking the timing part off the oil pump cover so i had to get a new one

Got the head back from the machine shop, oilpan on, timing cover on, head on, head cover on, etc.

heres some pics

Clean head


New Water/Oil pumps


She looks half new!


Done for the night


only while the yotas down, i swear.

 

dude i would have loaned you a cherry picker and an engine stand had you asked.