How hard is it to replace a wrist pin? I had my motor bored over, and everything else seems fine, but the one cylinder has what I think is a bad wrist pin. It's making me deaf because it's LOUD!

The truck runs fine otherwise, but I can't deal with it because it's getting so loud I'm afraid to put it under load above 30 mph. I might go completely deaf!

Any advice or suggestions or does anyone have anything to say? Great truck, but it's the loudest can of spoons I've ever heard!

 

well obviously .. you have to dismantel the motor and remove the pistons to get at them , so thats the hard part .. replacing them is as easy as soaking them in a hot sink of water and "pushing" them into place


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That's it? Just push them out/in?

 

yep .. they are held in with c-clips .. and the steel pin is a tight fit on the alum. piston (when new) .. so if you soak them in HOT, HOT water for a "bit" the pin will slide in really easy .. I have done this many , many times ..

what needs to be "sized" .. is the bushing at the end of the rod .




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so soak the piston/rod assembly in hot water, c-clip out, push out pin and what exactly needs to be sized? My rotating assembly is new but I didn't do the work on that stuff. Would it be the small end rod bearing? Or is there something on the end of the pin?

 

yes , the small end of the rod is "sized" to the new wrist pin


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ok, I spoke to Ted at Engine Builder, guess ultimately I have to rebuild my rotating assembly. I guess that's what happens when you have poor work done.

Does anyone have any experience with boring over .030? Ted was saying that .050 is the most you should go, and has done .060 for race applications that was a "last use ever" motor.

Stupid crappy machinist. Stupid self for trying to save money in the wrong place

 

By the way, thanks slacker for your help