Ok, so I know this guy who has been working on engines for a long, long time (40+ years). He owns a machine shop and works on engines for a living. He says he recommends 50wt for the 3VZE (I have a 94 3VZE), as well as a zinc additive because those engines are prone to cam wear and this zinc additive will help to prevent that and ultimately, keep the engine together. Also, that this additive is absolutely necessary because the oil companies have taken out the "natural" ingredients in the oil. What do you think about that? You, being anyone who has experience/recommendations from experience or knowledge about the 3VZE. Is this just a conspiracy or is this actually true???

Thanks!

 

He recommends straight 50wt? And yes i think the zinc thing is twaddle.

 

50wt??

that can't be good for cold oil flow..

Dunno if that'd be the best oil for a motor that likes to spin to 5,000rpm

 

5W-30 syn blend is the way to go IMHO.

 

I wonder if he is referring to Joe Gibbs break in oil? I just bought a case of it to break in my new motor in my ford. It's loaded with zinc to help break it in and I think it is a 50w oil. The oil I bought is for off road use only and I'm wondering if it's cuz the zinc or something else will work past the rings and clog up your cat. I would never run a 50w oil in a daily driver.

 

Well as I recall the oil cap (and owner's man.) recommend 10w30 for this engine for most applications 5w30 is an option for cold wx.
I was running 5w30 but found it too thin I went to the 10w30 (full synthetics) Mobil1 and had much better results consumption/driveability wise...
as these engines wear they will "open up" and you may get benefit from a thicker oil but straight 50wt will have near zero flow when the engine is cold
unless you are in the hot sw desert country and only driving during the heat of the day I would'nt chance it.
that zinc additive thing sounds like bushwah to me... I have had good results with adding a can of "Engine Restorer" every other oil change recently (quiets the lifters and seems to improve performance/compression?) but other than that (claims to contain a viscosity improver and agents that swell the gaskets/seals) ...

 

Any mechanic that recommends 50 weight oil as standard, builds their engines with just about the loosest tolerances possible.

Though I may forgive the ignorance over zinc based additives, that guy is building engines that will last just a little bit longer / past his warrantee.

 

Well There is a reason why I am now using valvoline dino. Switched from using any and all castrol products. The reason being higher zinc content. Better for newly rebuilt engine. Who told me this? Todd over at ENGNBLDR. So I don't think zinc is a scam unlike alot of other additives out there. Which there only a few I trust. Lucas and an oddball here but saved a motor that dropped its oil pan bolt once greased lightning (not the degreaser). I think z-max and and slick 50 are scammers though.

 

Thanks everyone for the advice. Interesting input from everyone. The engine is not completely rebuilt. However, I have replaced the heads/gaskets & seals all around. I did not touch the pistions/rings...but the heads I took off had a worn lobe on the right cam. The guy I bought it from said that he thought it was a blown head gasket, so I replaced them anyways. The heads were fine, but I paid to have them redone anyways. As far as the 50wt oil, I do not live in the desert, I live in tennessee. The coldest it ever gets here (until recently) is probably zero (F) on the worst day during the winter. It is hot and humid in the summer, so I was thinking that the 50wt thing was a tad off as well. I have 10w30 in it now (Val Max Life) and went ahead with the zinc additive (Lucas). It is going to be a daily driver and I am pretty stoked about it. However, I do not want to be taking it back apart within a few months.

 

Because of the design of the modern engines the oil companies do not add the amount of zinc that they used to or the amount needed for our older vehicles. I know of several engine builders that reccomend the zinc additives,

 

GM makes an oil supplement with lots of zinc for breaking in new engines. The zinc helps prevent galling.

 

with a GM product you'll need all the help you can get.

 

I just got the Lucas Zinc additive today as I am about to start up my 22RE for the first time. I like the idea, but the bottle says, "for racecars" and that it will damage catylitic converters.

What do you guys think?

 

Bobistheoilguy.com recommends 0W40 synthetic.

 

thats why i run 15 40 rotella diesel oil, more zinc i believe as well

 

Rotella and Valvoline have more zinc in it then any other OTC oil out there.

Running synthetic in a rebuilt motor is a bad idea.

 

I seem to recall reading about it having to do something with the design of the valvetrain needing the extra zinc to basically form an alloy with the wear surfaces and prevent excessive wear. Some claims were that not enough zinc was essentially the same as running without oil.

 

Back in the day oil had high zinc content in it. Now the oil companies refine it out. O.k for new roller rocker and lifter engines but any older engine with flat lifters that run on cam lobes the oil doesn't have enough lubrication. Rottela t oils still have high zinc content but you don't need the 15 w 40 viscosity. I would recommend zinc break in oil or zinc additive to break in these old engines and to keep running an additive with todays oils.

 

I know more about a 3VZE than most folks. So let me give you my opinion on that.

Which is this: It's not a conspiracy, but it isn't necessarily true either. ESPECIALLY the part about the cam wear. In my experience, with my 88 3VZE w/230,000 miles, that's 100% false. My ENTIRE valvetrain is original, exc. adjusting shims and new exhaust valves, and it doesn't show ANY signs of excessive wear. As far as the cams go, I've miked every lobe and journal on 'em. Both are still within factory specs all around. Do I still run diesel oil(already high in ZDDP), + STP oil treatment in it? Yep. I have my reasons...but it ain't to protect the cams.

On the oil weight debate, you figure that out on your own. I will tell you this, unless you live in Death Valley or somewhere's like that, straight 50 isn't going to be your best option.


That could be true. Does it mean you shouldn't put it in your 22RE? Nope. I would. We're talking about a whole different thing when comes to why you'd want to on that engine, particularly for the break-in oil. As it does have a cam wear problem.

 

??? Do you base that on scientific fact or just the seat of your pants?

I've been running synthetic in mine for over 100,000 miles now, 35k of which was post-rebuild. Synthetic is superior to standard oil in almost every way.


I rebuilt my 3VZE with 218k on the odometer & it also had ZERO cylinder, cam, & shim wear. It did, however, have significant main bearing wear due to water in the oil from a blown HG.