A few months back, my turn signals stopped working. I replaced the 15 amp fuse, only to have it burn out after a couple of uses. I recently went back and replaced the fuse with a 20 amp. The situation now, is that the left signal works fine, the right signal works but fades immediately after the first blinking cycle. While the blinker is still functioning, it is hardly noticeable. Furthermore, the battery indicator on the dash will drop as power is drawn to "blink". The vehicle is stock and nothing aside from adding two front mounted auxillary lights has been altered. As always, I appreciate the help.

Jorge
'92 4runner, V6, Stock

 

Never add a higher fuse man...never. The fuse is there to protect the wire, adding a higher fuse than is specified can results in fire.

 

x2

Sounds like you have a short somewhere. I would take that fuse out and put the proper one in. When you say it "fades" do you mean the light is very dim, or it blinks very slow? What exactly is it doing?

 

The truck has been parked. I only tested with the 20amp fuse. When I engage the right hand turn, it will blink once and the next time it blinks there is a noticably dimmer light and the battery indicator begins to dive as it blinks. As power is drawn for the blinker, the voltage indicator on the dash pulsates with the blinker.

 

The turn signal light is what is dimming.

 

what happens when you put the hazard lights on?

 

Hazards have always been fine.

 

Time for a new battery and alternator upgrade.

 

Sure that wont work, but why not waste some money haha

You say your hazzards are fine but your indicators are not? This is important, it tells me that the wiring that is common with both circuits is fine. This only leaves a short part of the circuit to troubleshoot.

Now the power supply for the flashers comes from both the TURN fuse AND the GAUGE fuse (both 10A). My guess is that you should be looking for a poor splice (corroded etc) or poor power supply at either fuse for whatever reason. I would start with a voltage test at the fuse (take it out and probe the hot side). Furthermore I would get a voltage check at the flasher relay...You are looking for the green wire which is your power feed, the other two are your flashed outputs (left/right)

A bad integration relay is also a possibility.

 

Thanks. I'll give these a read tonight and let you know what I find.

 

I had a weird issue with my left front corner fading out randomly and it helped to clean all the connectors at the bulb. I also added some connector grease. GL

 

A bigger amp alternator wont be a waste of money.They came from factory with a weak alt. mine works perfect but is to low of an amp rating.It cant keep up with lights,fan and blinker while stopped at a red light,it slows down then speeds back up when accelerating.

 

That's typical. Frequency(HZ) increases with revolutions...

 

thanks poynter; I'll add that to the to do list tonight.
Matt, I've been told that the stock alternator is a little dissapointing when it comes time to add accessory devices. Considering that it faded as I revved, I didn't even take the alternator into consideration. The only thing I have added on has been a pair of Hella 700s.

 

Yes thats what I read also JAV4,even had mine tested.Checked out perfect at Orielly auto parts.Also have a brand new silver diehard winter battery bought in november.I have no add ons/completely stock.When I get some hellas/custom stereo and start using my navigation system alt. will be upgraded.

 

Your combination switch may be failing, causing excessive draw on the right signal side.

 

x2!!

that's what I'd be checking first.

 

Shorts in the body wiring are often tricky to find, but that's what you have, if you're blowing a fuse.
Clean the socket real well. Trace the wire physically, use the ohm meter to determine when it shorts, as you wiggle and pull the wiring.
I had the EXACT problem once, it was a spot where the wire was rubbing a sharp place on the sheet metal.

 

Im sorry, not a waste of money...just unrelated to this topic. I can go on all night about upgrades that you could do, but none of them will solve this problem just like your suggestion. For the record the charging system in a toyota is not the best, although it was adequate for what the vehicle was equipped with. The problems you mentioned are not coming from your weak alternator (unless it is faulty) but most likely high resistance in splices etc...you have in your truck 15-20 year old wiring remember.

The combination switch is a very good suggestion...one of the easier things to test also.

 

I have read on here that its never been adequate when new from the factory.The wiring is old yes,that still doesnt change the fact toyota should have used a higher amp alternator.But you guys have great advice for JAV4,thats what I love about this forum.