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trouble with my 22re engine help?

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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 08:44 AM
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trouble with my 22re engine help?

hey im new to the site.... but im having a problem with my 22re firing up. i rebuilt the whole engine in it then hooked up all the wiring up. it turns over but slowly, its not the battery, and i had the timing checked and its all good, my thought is that something is holding back power to the starter, as in maybe some wiring problem, any suggestions? its a 85 4runner
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 08:47 AM
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Can you be more specific with regards to "rebuilt the whole engine"? Did you replace crank and rod bearings?
Have you tried removing the sparkplugs and cranking it?
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 08:53 AM
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well i got it a few months ago and the engine was rebuilt by the previous owner.. and it ran then blew a head gasket and snce the head hadent been rebuilt i had it rebuilt so i pulled the engine out and put the new head on and put the engine back together then droped it in the truck and went to fire it up after everything was connected. the ting is that even when i just turn it ove the battery terminals get hot too. thats why i believe its electrical.
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:02 AM
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Okay, I get what you're saying. But do you also realize that if coolant got into the oil, the coolant can cause the crank and rod bearings to fail? If the engine sat for some time, that can make things even worse.
So you didn't check the bearings?
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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yah i went over pistons rod bearings before i put it back in. i mean i figured why not check it while it was out.... ok and lets say there was a problem in the engine would it cause the terminals to get hot? and is there anything i can check electrical wised?
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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I'm with Abe on the bearing and stuff.

How many volts are you getting at the starter?
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:08 AM
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How did you check the bearings?

We'll come back to the hot terminals later.
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:09 AM
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i pulled them off and looked at them and made sure they were good.
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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So no Plastigauge, mic'ing or similar? I'm sure you can see .001" with your eye, right? ... bad monkey.

Back to the other question I asked-
How does it crank over without the sparkplugs installed?

Last edited by abecedarian; Jan 11, 2010 at 09:17 AM.
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:25 AM
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it turns over the same without the plugs
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:45 AM
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So, you can rule out compression as the problem if the plugs are removed and the engine cranks over exactly the same.

Next would be to verify that the engine block is adaquately grounded and the connection to the starter from the battery is sufficient for the current being drawn.

If you have a clamp-on ammeter, you may want to check exactly how much current is being drawn by the starter in order to crank the engine over. If you don't have one, check the voltage at the starter solenoid before cranking and while cranking. Post the results, please.

Last edited by abecedarian; Jan 11, 2010 at 09:49 AM.
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 03:37 PM
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it has 12.75 and when it cranks over it has about 9.8....
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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ok so i got it spnning at a good paste now...... had the timing rechecked..... its sparking but its still not firing? any suggestions
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 03:20 PM
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12.75 rest voltage to 9.8 cranking is a fair good amount of draw- more than I'd like to see, suggesting the battery is in need of a charge but... okay, it's cranking and you have spark.
so now next is making sure the sparks are occuring when they should- crank TDC notch at 0, cam on #1 with both intake and exhaust valves loose, distributor rotor pointing just a tad CCW of straight up and down, distributor adjusting bolt about mid-way in the adjustment.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
12.75 rest voltage to 9.8 cranking is a fair good amount of draw- more than I'd like to see, suggesting the battery is in need of a charge but....

I agree about the drop in voltage it's allot....here is what I'm thinking. the main or rod caps are too tight. I myself had a issue on my 22RE, everything was in spec as per the pastigauge but the order that the main caps got tightened caused the crank to stop spinning by hand..latter found that the line bore was off and if I changed the #2 with the #4 cap it would spin and was still within spec.

if this is the case, it could be the cause of the massive power draw and that battery cables to getting hot.

Last edited by wrnchplr; Jan 12, 2010 at 03:45 PM. Reason: added more
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:00 AM
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ok so nows its turning over faster and i set the distributor.... now what its doing is it will turn over just fine and its trying to fire up but its just not and it will backfire and i pullled the plugs and it fluds over easy....is it possible its getting too much gas or what do u guys thing its doing?
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:09 AM
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I know it sounds silly, make sure the timing isn't off. if you pulled the head there is a chance the cam is off. also check the plug wires, that to can cause this issue if the firing order isn't correct, it's 1342 IIRC
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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so it can be the wires or plugs right?
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 854runner4x4
so it can be the wires or plugs right?
if it's flooding out it could cause the plugs to foul out. if the wires are not in the correct firing order it will back fire. do you have the MAF plugged in? also do you have the cross over pipe for the intake hooked up?
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:47 AM
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yah its pluged in and i had it on once and still keeped doing it....but i took it off
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