My 4Runner has plenty of problems, but this is the most obvious one.

What the heck is this sound? It's like a sucking type of sound. You can hear it really well at 0:14 to 0:20.

It's other problems are: mostly refuses to downshift, idles way too low and rough, brake pedal goes almost all the way to the floor, and it smells like gas.

I think there's a vacuum leak somewhere. The timing is a little advanced as well, 5 degrees, because it was at 7,500 ft, but now it's at sea level.

 

OK first things first. Time it properly.

Next. That gas smell may be an O ring on an injector that has gone bad. Or it could be running really rich. Any CEL codes?

Third. If the brake pedal goes to the floor and you suspect a vac leak I'd check the connection going to the brake booster.

Fouth. I have no idea what that sound is, sounds like an aluminum can in the air box.

I'm sorry I don't have more but I've never owned a V6.

 

get a vacum gauge and read the vacum off the brake booaster line..

you can buy one at sears or harbor frieght tools

 

if i remember right, mine makes the same noise. took it to a mechanic, nothing wrong. I did that 30k miles ago. you're fine dude.

 

I'll change the timing, and look into the brake booster. There's a vacuum gauge around here somewhere.

Maybe I'll pop that box open and see if someone threw a can in there

 

u may be on the verge of just replacing your master brake cly. thou...

 

I wouldn't even trip about it. but go ahead and pop it open.

 

well thats why you have a e- brake for..

 

Well it looks like there's fuel/oil sitting on top of the injectors where the little o-ring is...I guess that's bad.

Is there any way to fix the leak, or they just have to be replaced?

 

5BTDC is bad timing? My 88 and 91 22re's both call for 5BTDC as baseline timing.... are you jumpering the diagnostic terminals when checking the timing? If not, and you're seeing 5BTDC, your timing is 'retarded' and needs advanced and that would explain the gasoline smell, hestitant down-shifts, and low idle.

Listened to the vid and didn't hear much out of the norm.

 

And if the brake pedal goes to the floor easily, the booster isn't the problem, so don't look for vacuum leaks there.

 

Actually it's at 10 degrees, which is what it's supposed to be according to the book. I did jump E1 and TE1. It might be 11 actually, but the timing mark is jumping all around because it's missing.

I think it's missing because of the above mentioned injector leak.

 

It looks like the injectors are leaking. No codes though.

 

to fix the leaking injectors you got to replace the o rings on top of the injector. just did that to mine today.

 

My bad, I was stuck in 22re for a moment,

Still, the same basic thing applies- if you jumper the test connector, the timing should drop to baseline and the idle should change as well. If the timing mark is still jumping around after the jumper is inserted, I'd check the TPS adjustment.

If the timing reads 5 without the jumper inserted, your timing is retarded, not advanced, and should be more around 20-25 without the jumper. This is only an observation and shouldn't be used to set your timing. Adjust the timing and idle to factory specs, per procedures.

Fuel leaking around the injectors is possible, at the fuel inlet side, but near impossible at the injector > intake mount point due to the negative pressure (vacuum) within the intake system and periodicity of injection events.