95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

valve cover gasket questions (1999)

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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 07:28 AM
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swerks's Avatar
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From: Milwaukee WI
Question valve cover gasket questions (1999)

So I need to repace my valve cover gaskets, is there any thing else I should do while I take on this project ? currently my truck is running fine what problems do leaking valve covers lead to??? I have about 112000 mi on this vehicle.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 01:31 PM
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I just gave everything a good cleaning: covers and both intake plenums, replaced the PCV, cover gaskets, tube seals (mine were leaking), and I did plugs and wires while I had it apart.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 05:29 PM
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Me and my brother did both of ours at the same time. He has a 98'. On both 3.4Ls, they were leaking around the back toward the firewall. My brother's 98' was leaking on the exhaust so bad it was smoking oil off the exhaust manifold. That is what I have seen on several others. I don't see how oil gets into the spark plug tubes but it could happen (which is not a big deal anyway). I would replace the spark plug tube seals (PITA to get out BTW), PCV valve and grommet (notorious for leaking), spark plug wires and spark plugs if you need them. You might as well clean the throttle body while you have it off the truck.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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How long is this task to take on for a fairly mechanically inclined dude? I noticed that mine are leaking too tonight. It dont look too tough. Any other gaskets that I will need while doing this? And wheres the best place to get gaskets? OEM or the parts store? Are Toyota OEM better?

Last edited by B. Graves; Dec 21, 2009 at 07:04 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by B. Graves
How long is this task to take on for a fairly mechanically inclined dude? I noticed that mine are leaking too tonight. It dont look too tough. Any other gaskets that I will need while doing this? And wheres the best place to get gaskets? OEM or the parts store? Are Toyota OEM better?
I would only get Toyota OEM. For me it is worth it not to have to worry about it. Here is a list of parts that I purchased when I did mine:

2 Valve cover gaskets ($~27 / ea)
6-7 spark plug tube seals (just in case you put one in wrong, you have to ruin them to get them out , $3.00 / ea)
1 PCV valve ($6.00)
1 PCV valve grommet ($8.00)
2 Intake manifold gaskets (There is one between the intake manifold halfs and one below the manifold close to the injectors, they are the same part # $~13.00 / ea)
1 tube FIPG ($10.00)
1 Can carb and choke cleaner (for cleaning the throttle body if you want $3.00)

If you havn't changed your plugs or wires in a while, now would be a good time to do that too since you have to take the plug wires out anyway.

I also ported my intake manifold and cleaned my throttle body really good, total time = about 7 hours including a break for lunch and a trip to the stealer for some more parts. Book time is about 3.5 hours at the stealer so I always figure about double without air tools.

It was more tedious than difficult but well worth the near $500 that I saved. The biggest pain was the engine wire harness, there is a lot of plugs and hoses. Wrap the engine wire harness in black electrical tape before you start moving it around to prevent little chips of brittle plastic in your engine.

Last edited by stir_fry_boy; Dec 23, 2009 at 11:35 AM.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 05:11 PM
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thanks man, thats awesome. very helpful. definitely something ill do in the near future.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 05:20 PM
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From: Upsate SC
I'm going to have to do the same on mine sometimes soon when I get a break. Hopefully I can get a few hours in the shop to do it. Thanks stir fry for the parts/prices info. I'll be using that info soon.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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From: Shelburne, VT previous: Everett, WA; Bellingham, WA
Originally Posted by Ironmike4x4
I'm going to have to do the same on mine sometimes soon when I get a break. Hopefully I can get a few hours in the shop to do it. Thanks stir fry for the parts/prices info. I'll be using that info soon.
DITTO! i'll certainly use this info in the coming months. thanks!
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 07:01 PM
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From: SLC, UT
If you need any helps, just PM me. There is a trick to getting the left valve cover out due to the left side wire harness. Once you get the valve cover loose, you push the valve cover all the way as close as you can toward the firewall, then you rotate it (if you are looking toward the back of the truck) clockwise about 30 degrees and then pull the cover toward you keeping it as flat as possible. If you don't you will end up breaking more of the brittle plastic wire harness cover (which I suggest should be completely wrapped in black electrical tape). On the right side cover it won't be as much of a pain. I also undid the main wire harness clip on the back of the engine in the middle to allow some movement in the harness. I unplugged the injectors but not the fuel rail. I also unplugged two little connectors on the right side under the top timing cover that ran with the wire harness. This allowed for maximum movement of the wire harness to get the valve covers out. These 2 little connectors are hard to see, but once you take the manifold off and look toward the front of the truck from the right side fender underneath the top timing belt cover, you will see them.

Last edited by stir_fry_boy; Dec 23, 2009 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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Ken
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From: Kirkland-ish, WA
I had my injectors cleaned at the same time as well:
http://www.witchhunter.com/

I definitely recommend replacing the spark plug wires. The power I regained was noticable on my 144K engine.
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