so in an attempt to figure out my idle problem i wanna clean up allll my emissions crap

i live in Oklahoma so i have no emissions testing..and do not come in here and start preaching to me about the environment....

i think all i actually need to run good and run right is the vacuum line going to the outer diaphragm on the distributor.. and the PCV valve..

my EGR is blocked off..but the stuff is still there..i just need to get the 2 block off plates to get rid of that.

i figure if i get rid of alll them vacuum lines..then i will hopefully eliminate a vacuum leak that i can't find....

do i need any of the vacuum stuff that's on the passenger side inner fender?..i know i dont need the AAP..or the Choke opener..so i can get rid of that all together and plug up the hole with a brass bolt.

could it be possible that my vacuum leak is coming from the fast idle cam where it goes into the carb?..if i spray carb cleaner around that area..then it idles up..which means i got a leak right there..but there isn't anything there except for that????

 

anybody???

i know i also don't need the choke breaker diaphragm so i'll block that one off as well..since i can just tie open the secondary barrel..that'll take care of that

and i noticed that the fuel level in the sight glass isn't consistant..most the time its a bit high..but other times its way high..and sometimes its way low..and the whole time i was on level ground..lol

i'll check my float here pretty soon and see what it's up to.

i just wanna know what all my truck NEEDS to run..

 

I've been considering a Weber conversion and have been researching what lines I'll need to keep in place.

You've got the vacuum advance, PCV and the line going to the brake booster. At least this is what I've been able to find so far.

I found my vacuum leak by spraying the lines with carb cleaner while it was running. As soon as I heard the idle change - I knew where my leak was.

What carb are you running??

 

im runnin the stock 22r carb...

yea forgot to add the brake booster..lol i need to keep that as well

i want to get a weber REALLY bad..but i just dont have the money for it..and since the motor only needs the PCV, vacuum advance, and the brake booster with the weber..im thinkin it's the same thing for the stock carb no?

 

probably - I would guess.. you'll have to plug everything else. I know it will affect your timing/idle speed if you don't have everything plugged in (or plugged) properly.

I've seen used Webers for $100 and I know you could sell your AISIN carb pretty easily. A lot of people (especially gnarls - on this board) love them.

 

well i can't ever find one anywhere..seen a couple of em here in the classifieds..but i can't ever get the guys to replay back LOL

all i wanna do is get my little baby back on the road!!!..guess i could just take everything off today..plug it all and see what happens..if that don't fix things then i guess i'll check my float level again..if that don't help..then idk wtf im gonna do..

 

it will run... I've screwed around with mine enough to know I really can't screw it up too bad. I do think I like the idea of a Weber - even though it probably isn't a great as the AISIN but simple for me is worth something. I don't have anyone around that knows carbs very well so the simpler I can make it the better for me.

good luck and keep us updated.

 

lol that's exactly how i feel!

Thanks and will do bud!!

 

one more. I know it isn't the easiest thing to search.. but if you search Craigslist in other areas you may be able to negotiate with the seller to ship it to you.. just an idea.

 

oh believe me...i've been searching other states for a long time LOL!

welll well well..i started the truck up..let it warm off...brought it off the cold idle..and it started acting up just like it has been...i unplugged the electrical plug comin off the carb (choke, idle cut, fuel bowl vent) and...NOTHING happened..still ran like crap...and i KNOW the choke is working properly...and the fuel bowl vent is not important..so BANGO!!! theres my problem

now i just need to find an idle cut solenoid and i'll be set..and to avoid any future problems..im gonna tie the solenoid directly into the ignition that way i can rule out the plug or the wires going to it!.

to say the least im extremely ecstatic! and i'm still going to clean up all the junky vacuum lines on it..but not until i get the new solenoid in.

thanks to everybody that has helped me!!!

 

glad you found the issue! it is always nice to fix it yourself...

 

yes it is!..and it's also cheaper! lol..money savings is always a big thing with me..i always look for deals on stuff i want..and buy used whenever i can

 

If you have a vacuum leak were the fast idle cam shaft goes into the carb, then thats a vacuum leak right there, and its not easilly repaired with out sending the carb out and having it profesionally rebuilt.

 

well i noticed today that i forgot to put the gasket in there for the Idle Cut Solenoid...so i think that could be where the vacuum leak is...im gonna replace the idle cut solenoid and the gasket and see if that helps..if it helps..but still leaks around that area i'll send it off for repairs lol

 

wellll wellll wellll guys....still no go..wtf lol

i havent replaced the idle cut solenoid because i know that it is good...i can give it power and it does it's job lol..i've even cleaned it very well

i believe it's just leaking..i can't get a rubber o-ring to stay on it!!!..and idk where the hell to get the gasket..other than getting another rebuild kit (mine did not come with one..what a surprise..lol)

im gonna try a fat o-ring today and see what happens..maybe that'll do the trick..

oh and on another note...i was messing around with some fuses by the batter..pulled a 30amp fuse out..truck started to die so i put it back in..and KA-BOOM...it backfired VERY loud...made both of my ears ring and hurt like hell (and i duck hunt constantly around 12ga and 10ga shotguns)......after it backfired..it ran perfect at 1000 rpms for about 10 minutes...then start to do it's idle surge problem again like it has been...jut thought i'd throw that out there and see if anybody can explain why it ran better after it backfired??

 

anybody!?!?

 

Get that emissions stuff back in there and then maybe the carb will work properly?
I mean, who'd have thought that the carb would be tuned that way, right?

 

I concur.
I don't think the aisin carbs were designed to have things blocked off, and vacuum ports plugged.
some of the vacuum ports my be vital to fuel delivery you know

 

kinda funny how a BUNCH of people remove alllll their emissions stuff...and their truck runs fine.....i've not removed anything that has anything to do with fuel delivery.....

 

did you maybe check and see what all they removed, before you started removing stuff?
maybe you removed a bunch of stuff that wasn't supposed to be removed.. like the vacuum advance?