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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Brake Bleeding drivers rear issue

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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 09:56 PM
  #1  
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Brake Bleeding drivers rear issue

So I went to bleed the brakes and had some weird issues..

I have previously replaced both rear brake pistons.

I started with the rear driver side, farthest from the MC..

Nothing would come out of the bleeder when pumping the brakes...

kinda stumped, I moved on to the passenger side and it seems normal.

pump pump pump..

moved on to the lpsv while I was in the area just to see if I was crazy..
I had some fluid come out .. slowly..

So I thought it might be the lpsv, so I unbolted the end and tried bleeding the drivers rear again with the end all the way down and all the way up.

moved on to the front brakes and they bleed as normal, finish off with the lpsv again and the brakes feel better..

but I am still stumped so I go back and try to bleed the drivers rear again.. and the same thing..nothing comes out

pull off the drum and it looks fine, pads move when I push the pedal..pedal feels like crap

put it all back together, and bleed the passenger side bubbles in the line, can't get out with what is left of my brake fluid.

bleed the lpsv. and the brakes feel ok.. but I can't get the drivers side rear to bleed like normal..

WTF?
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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The rear brakes tee off of the LSP-BV so not sure why you'd get fluid from the passenger side and not the driver's side other than maybe the line from the LSP-BV's Tee to the driver's side is somehow plugged.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 10:14 PM
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The normal bleeding sequence would be:
Left rear
right rear
left front
right front
LSP-BV
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 10:43 PM
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Red face

Why do you bleed the left rear first ??

In the old days when i was learning these things in the late sixties i was taught to do the brake on the right rear first as it is the farthest away .

It still seems to work just fine.

There is dirt or rust in your bleeder did you try taking it out and cleaning perhaps it needs to be replaced.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
The normal bleeding sequence would be:
Left rear
right rear
left front
right front
LSP-BV
Not according to the book.

Should be:

Pass rear
Dvr rear
Pass front
Dvr front



Pass rear is the furthest point away from the master cylinder.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 11:13 PM
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DC, if you think about it, it really isn't the farthest away..
Gotta think in the terms of brake lines.
The Driverside Rear is the farthest brake line length, but pass. rear is farther in distance..
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 11:16 PM
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
yep. LSP-BV is on the passenger side and the line to the drivers rear is the longest.
... for North America vehicles at least, where the driver is on the left side of the cab.

Last edited by abecedarian; Nov 19, 2009 at 11:18 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 08:21 AM
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well I bled mostly in order...

and bleeding order would not give me the issues I am having..
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 08:24 AM
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is the bleed screw plugged up? is the passenger side adjusted properly?
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 09:34 AM
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From: San Diego
passenger side is adjusted..

I'll check the bleeder valve...

if not I might just have to ditch the lps thing. .I have a brake prop...
or try undoing the fittings off the tee to the passenger side and see if I get fluid..
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 10:02 AM
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From: San Diego
well I took out bleeder bolt and its clean and free..
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 11:56 AM
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I had the exact same problem recently. I'm curious, did you plug your brake lines when you were working on the wheel cylinders or let them drip?

I believe what has happened is enough brake fluid drained out during your work on the wheel cylinders that air got into the master cylinder. I would suggest you bleed the system from the master cylinder. To do this you will need a large syringe and a rubber stopper of some kind. I got mine when I bought a new caliper.

Basically you open one rear bleeder and push fluid from the master cylinder out through the bleeder. You have to take off the resevoir and then the rubber stopper sits ontop of the resevoir flange. You use the syringe to push fluid through the lines. This was the ONLY way I could get all the air out of the master cylinder. As a bonus your flushing all the old fluid out.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 01:44 PM
  #13  
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From: San Diego
I left the lines open when I replaced the cylanders.

Well I have a bigger mc to put on and some v6 brakes, have to try this out.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 02:20 PM
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I suspect if you left the lines open, that is exactly the problem. Correction to my previous post too, the syringe and rubber thing came with a new MC I put on. For some reason these MCs are really hard to bleed any other way...
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 05:34 PM
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have to find out of these syringes...
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 05:59 PM
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Talk to the parts store, see if they'll let you borrow one, or at least take a look at it so you know what I mean. I can't seem to find my camera or i'd post a pic.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 09:50 AM
  #17  
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I ended up putting on a new MC, and its all fixed now.
After several attempts at bleeding the system, it may not have been the issue but it fixed it either way.
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