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22RE no compression 3rd cylinder

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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:46 AM
  #1  
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22RE no compression 3rd cylinder

Hello all, first off wanted to say how great this forum is and you guys have TONS of great info, glad I found it

anyways, i recently got a friends '91 pickup with 22re engine. the story is back in march he was driving and the exhaust pipe came unwelded just past the Y pipe that bolts into the exhaulst manifold. the engine backfired and he drove it for about 3 miles back to his house but said it was running really weak, he parked it and hasn't started since.

i got it back to my shop and did a compression check on it and 1,2 and 4 were almost 150, but #3 didn't read anything at all. my friend suggested that i take the valve cover off and make sure it wasn't a sticky valve. I took the cover off and all the valves seem to be opperating when I turn it over. so what would you guys check next? i'll take some pics today and post them, if you guys need more info just ask! thanx!
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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From: oregon
id say that there is a burnt vavle.


search "leak down test"
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 09:46 AM
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So I took the exhaust manifold off and found this gem =P



so I'm wondering if you guys think I should just get a new block, or look for another engine and save this one for spare parts? also is it possible to patch something like this? unfortunatly I looked at it again this morning and found that the piston rod punched a hole underneath this one so there are 2 holes...
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
Why is it always #3 cylinder that chucks the rod??? That block is gone, get a new engine save that one for parts.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 10:23 AM
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lol you said it backfired.. thats not a backfire lol.

im sure it was knocking before it threw the rod threw the block.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 12:11 PM
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
The "backfire" was the rod coming out then it knocked the exhaust manifold off.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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3 miles he drove that eh
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 05:19 PM
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From: Sarasota, Florida
Holy ...Yeah I guess there your answer why no compression in cylinder 3..

You are going to need a new block...Wow only 3 miles and it was doing that?? I think it was knocking for a while..

Good luck..
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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From: Arizona
Try some duct tape?
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 05:32 PM
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From: hubert nc
well shoot if u drove it 3 miles go ahead and patch it up with a welder and just drive on 3 cly.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 08:17 AM
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like I said, I don't know exactly what happened since it wasn't mine when the rod went through and flyingbrass your the second person to suggest the duct tape patch

I'm kinda thinking I would rather get a new block and rebuild this engine, then atleast I know what's in it and it'll be a great learning experience. now to try and get a new block to Alaska
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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From: Sarasota, Florida
Hello

Look on Ebay..Maybe a Junk (recycling) yard. You never know what you will find. However, I find it hard to find a Toyota truck with a good engine in it. Most 22RE last forever, makes it harder...

Good Luck!
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 02:57 PM
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From: hubert nc
check craigslist under auto parts u never know what some wants to git rid of..
i found my 22re for 250 bucks
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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Is there a big power or gas mileage difference between the 22REC and the regular 22RE? I found a '94 22rec with 122k on it for 900 that i'm thinking about but wanted to know if there is a downside to those cali engines?

here are some more pics too





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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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Some backfire

22REC 22RE same thing fuel injection. REC is cali emissions legit. RTE is a turbo.

I've seen these engines continue to run with holes in the block before. It's actually the oil loss that kills them, not the rod itself.

Last edited by allnmstkn313; Feb 12, 2010 at 04:51 PM.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 06:15 PM
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hey guys, so i got another engine in a parts truck, took it out, swapped it over, put in a block heater and changed over everything that i could find (my truck is 4wd and the donor truck was 2wd), got everything back together, she runs but she idles like crap, and as far as i know nothing was changed, didn't mess with the timing or anything, so I did some searching on here and i adjusted the TPS, i actually changed out the TPS from my old engine to this engine, and still running rough when idling, so you guys have any ideas on what it could be? i'll post a video of it running, it's kinda loud cause the exhaust isn't seated correctly cause i had to weld it and i didn't get new gaskets for it yet lol oh and is it possible to change the pullies attached to my crankshaft without removing the fan and radiator, cause i didn't notice it until now that the one on there is a 2 pully and i need to put on the 3 pully so the powersteering is lined up correctly, thanks!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZuUImUIPV4
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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So I pulled the codes and only one that showed was for the AFM so i switched it with the one from the donor truck that i got the engine from and she runs like a charm so now i just need to do some body work, does anybody have any suggestions for how to put like 10' subs behind the seat? anybody know of custom boxes or should i just make my own? thanks
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:54 PM
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From: NC
No offense... but you had to take the exhaust manifold off to notice that "WHOLE" rod hanging out the block......? Well... either way that sucks and good luck on the build. And tell you friend "Check and change oil" <--Does he know what that means?
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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lol probably not, but he's not getting it back now and yeah that side has no room and i'm a novice mechanic so i didn't know where to start, but i got my new engine back in and running correctly so i'm happy with the job =)
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