95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Rear Deflector Install -- Any Tricks??

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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 02:42 AM
  #1  
JamesDINAN's Avatar
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From: Cary, NC
Rear Deflector Install -- Any Tricks??

My rear deflector arrived last night!

I was thinking of DIY...I do have to drill all holes myself plus I do have to collapse the rivet nuts.

I went to the hardware store last night to buy/rent a Rivet Nut Collapsing Tool (instructions call for one). I did not find one so, looks like I will try making the "manual" version and crossing my fingers I do it right.

Any advice/tricks-of-the-trade from prior installers on this install? Or, is it better to not risk it and push the liability to a shop and have them install it instead??

Thanks!
JamesDINAN
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 05:54 AM
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Sorry I don't have any tips for you but let me know how the manual version works out for you. I have one loose rivet and have not got around to trying to fix it yet.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 08:15 AM
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From: Tucson, AZ
The factory 5mm rivnuts require a 9/32" hole. Try to find a bullet bit, they drill a more circular hole than a normal bit (which tends to drill a tri-lobular shaped hole). They are very difficult to set without a tool. I would try to find someone nearby you with a tool. Nothing worse than a spinning rivnut because it wasn't set all the way, plus you don't want your deflector flying off.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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From: Cary, NC
Good advice, James Dean!

I just may see what the local shop would charge me to do the install. We'll see...
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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Do you have the rivnuts?
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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Also if you drill the holes yourself, make sure to use a bit stop (rubber holes, socket, etc.) to keep the bit from going in too far.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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James Dean: Yep, I have all the hardware. I went to Sears to get everything else (drill bits, stop, centerpunch, etc, but they didn't have a drill stop!? That surprised the heck outta me.

I also wanted to see if they had a Rivet Nut Collapsing Tool but they didn't...I'll probably try Home Depot / Lowes tomorrow.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 05:56 PM
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You have to make your own. It's incredibly simple, and works far better than the actual "tool" does anyway.

And if you find a Rivnut tool with an M6 mandrel, then you spent entirely too long looking.

All you need is a ~1.5" long bolt (flange bolt works best), a washer and a nut in the same thread pitch and diameter as the Toyota hardware included (M6x1.25 if I recall).

Drilling the correct size hole is FAR more important than the tool you use to install the nut. I was able to get mine on easily once the guy at Copper State hardware showed me how to make this:

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/rivnut.asp
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 06:00 PM
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From: Tucson, AZ
just cut a piece of 1/4" or 5/16" rubber hose just a little shorter than the bit sticks out. If it's the same rivnut the 2nd gen uses I believe it's 5mm.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 08:26 PM
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where did you get the deflector?
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 05:30 AM
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Midget96: Thanks for the link - the instructions were helpful. Since I do not have a way of drilling the threads out from the nut I think I will go with the way Toyota makes their manual tool. But, the Toyota instructions say to "turn wrench 2 full turns after seating M5 bolt", and I am not quite sure in my head at what point "seated" is. Do they mean, when the rivnut is merely pushed into the hole and flush with the roof panel? I wish they just gave a value (in./lbs., etc.) to torque them to. I was reading other Toyota instructions on installing a roofrack, and in there they say that once the rivnut is torqued to 4-5 in./lbs., THEN it is properly seated. So, that is why I am confused -- at which point is the rivnut "seated"? When it's flush...after nut-turning gets hard...etc.?

Here's a description on Toyota's tool, in order, starting directly above rivnut and working upward: #6 external tooth lock washer, 1/4-20 nut, M5 bolt (w/ 1/4 I.D. washer).

James Dean: I will look for that bullet bit. Toyota instructions call for 7.6mm, which equates to 19/64. Do you think I'd be better off with the 9/32 instead?? I sure don't want to make the hole too big; are you taking into account that deburring could possibly, slightly enlargen the hole? Or, if the hole is too small, should I enlargen it to the point where the rivnut fits tightly or slides in easily?

Regarding the drill stop, Toyota says 3/8" from tip of drill. Maybe I will go 1/4" to be on the safe side...

I feel a little silly about this whole thing because it seems I'm making it into a big production. lol
I'm sure my "over-cautiousness" when I get the first rivnut under my belt. Mainly, I am a little gunshy I guess about drilling into the vehicle and getting the holes the right size (and, obviously in the right locations), and not over-tightening the rivnuts.

Outsane: I purchased mine from TRDparts4u.com. Someone else mentioned you can get them from Irbis Off Road (Aurora CO) as well.

Sorry so long - thanks everyone!!
JamesDINAN
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 05:53 AM
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From: the great Maine wilderness
dang... I just drilled holes, tapped them, put some rtv in there to keep them from leaking, and bolted it on.... been over a year now....
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 06:07 PM
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I got a pretty good deal on the install, so I paid someone else to put it on...
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 11:28 PM
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From: Hawaii
Got any pics of the before and after?

I was actually gonna get the same thing from TRDparts4u but I decided to just get a Jaos Spoiler instead. I just couldn't picture myself drilling any holes on my rig.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 01:59 AM
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Nope, no before/after pix...didn't see the need. I am not a fan of the Jaos style, but then again I am not a big fan of the 4th gen. In your small profile pic, it looks good though!
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 12:07 AM
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From: Hawaii
Originally Posted by JamesDINAN
Nope, no before/after pix...didn't see the need. I am not a fan of the Jaos style, but then again I am not a big fan of the 4th gen. In your small profile pic, it looks good though!
Haha, thanks man!
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