Help,
I have a 2000 4runner limited 3.4v6

I just changed the fuel filter. I followed the Haynes repair manual that said to unplug the fuel pump relay near the hood release. I reinstalled the relay, and new fuel filter.

Now it won't start. Starter is working fine.


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Fix: It ended up being a bad relay. I am not sure if it was the EFI relay under the hood, or the open ciruit relay under the dash (they are identical). I took both out and took them to my friendly neighborhood shop. They checked them and found one to be bad. The dealer wanted around $25 ea. and needed to order. The NAPA around the corner had it in stock for $8.46.
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Did you let it prime the system? Key on, key off, key on, key off, key on, start
Are you getting fuel?
Can you hear the fuel pump for a few seconds when you turn the key to the ON position?

 

I don't hear the fuel pump. Where should I look next? I do hear three clicks from under the hood.

 

I'd imagine the system is not getting primed like said earlier... just keep trying ...

 

if it ran before it should run now did you put the filter in the right way they only flow one way for a reason.
as tubbyfatty said is it primed I have never heard my fuel pump either, so you can not always hear the fuel pump.

 

Any chance you could have blown a fuse while disconnecting the fuel pump relay?

 

I've checked almost every fuse. I looked at the fuses under the hood, and under the dash. I paid close attention to the EFI fuses. I took off the negative cable from the battery for a little while. (Have heard it resets the ECU) Still no luck

 

Did you change the fuel filter because you had a pre-existing problem, or did you change it just for maintenance?

 

I changed the filter for both maintenance and a slight pre-existing problem. It has 84K miles, and I believe it had the original filter. I have owned it for about 6 months. Sometimes it hesitates when accelerating from a stop. Sometimes when starting after driving, it doesn't start just right. Maybe it seems to crank a little longer. So I was changing the fuel filter, and going to clean the MAF sensor.

 

Is there anything else that's not working - electrical wise? Does the engine just keep turning over and over but not fire up?

 

x2, you checked the flow arrow is going in the right direction?

 

I checked the flow arrow on the filter, it is correct. (pointing to the front of the vehicle). Nothing else seems not to be working. After priming, key on, off, on, off a bunch of times, is seems that it is almost going to start, but dies right away. Just cranks and cranks.

I checked for voltage at the two EFI locations per the service manual, there was. I don't know how to check continuity of the relays as shown in the manual.

 

Did you disconnect the battery before you disconnected the relay? Maybe something shorted out. Test the relay, fuel pressure, and fuel pressure regulator and you'll get a better idea.

 

Some filters have end caps on them to keep debris out of the filter during shipping and storage etc. Are you sure that you got these off? Did you use any teflon tape or anything that could of ended up obstructing the flow. I would take the filter off and check to make sure that there is nothing blocking the flow and while you have it off key the ignition on real quick and see if fuel comes out. Becareful no open flames or spark obviously.

 

To check the relay first you must understand how it works.
A relay works by passing a current through a electro magnet which makes the contacts touch allowing energy to pass through.

so if you take the relay out connect two wires to those two terminals and then to the battery "negative last" you should have continuity between the other two conections.

I have taken the cover off of relays before and cleaned the contacts "which are pretty much the same as the contacts in the old points on older cars" I cleaned them with a small file or emory board "girls use for nails" Emory cloth or sand paper. this is only a temporary fix but may work for an extended period of time.

The reason this works is that the contacts get pitted and corroded which prevents electrical continuity and flow. If nothing else you will be sure that was the problem in the first place.

First check continuity! Clean contacts at your own risknot hard but some people find this to be a little hanky but it will get you down the road.

 

Recheck your fuses using a test lite, not visual inspection. I have had hairline cracks that have bitten me on the A$$, thinking they are ok. Just a suggestion! Also with the key on install and remove the EFI relay and see if it has an audioable click. Hope that helps!
Pigman

 

I took the filter off, no end caps. While the filter was off, I turned the key on, and no fuel came out. I tried starting for a second, no fuel. I tried key on, key off, key on, off, etc. then starting, no fuel.

I'll try replacing the EFI fuse.

I know some cars have a fuel pump reset (Fords), anyone know if Toyota does, or a direct fuse for the fuel pump. I only found the one fuse under hook labeled EFI.


I don't follow how/what to use, to check the continuity. I understand the two wires to the battery. Do I put a basic test light to the other two, (clip ground wire to one, touch with point of test light and see if it lights?)


I'll call the dealer and see how much a relay is

**Thanks to everyone who replied**

 

no reset on the yotas

 

check the circuit opening relay. or just try resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery for 15min.

 

Finally, today I got a chance to take off work, and spend some time going through this again. I pulled the carpet up from under the left side back seat to gain access to the fuel pump harness. I ran jumper wires from the battery to the fuel pump. It came right on. It is not very loud. I tried starting after reattaching the harness to the fuel pump. It started right up, and died after about 30 seconds. Now its time to work backwards. I pulled up the carpet along the door frame to follow the wires back. It's time to get these relays checked. The friendly neighborhood shop checked them for me. They found one to be bad. YEAH! Finally, something. The dealer wanted around $25, and needed to order. I stopped at the NAPA around the corner. They had it in stock, $8.46. Plugged them both in, and it started right up!!!

I don't know what happened to it. Oh, well.
I also cleaned the MAF. Hopefully this will cure my hesitation from a stop, and warm slow starting issues.