my front calipers have locked with pressure onto my rotors.they move enof to slide and drive but rub real bad.any one got sum ideas.they are brand new and have been bled apropriately any help would be great.no one ever msg back on this site for me!!! help!

 

calipers should hold the pads close to the surface of the rotors, but they should be free enough to spin. they definitely should not smoke.

if the calipers are staying clamped tightly on to the rotors, your pistons may need cleaning, or they may be seized.

if the calipers are staying clamped tightly on to the rotors only when the vehicle is running, your booster may not be releasing vaccuum when you release the pedal.

 

thx 4 the help first person to reply to any msg ty im gonna try cleaning the calipers.and ill check the booster cuz its brand new maybe hose or sumthin.they dont smoke but once ive been driving say 15 miles the right well slowly grind to a stopstay seized till they cool down.once they slow down i can crawl home lol really ty for the help

 

Does it only do it when the engine is running?
What happens when you pump the brakes while it's off?

Fink

 

Something not mentioned here yet is swollen ruber brake lines.

The rubber lines to accomodate suspension travel can swell- on the INSIDE, and limit brake fluid movement.

When rubber lines get old, the outside looks dry and cracked, sometimes they look just fine, but the inside is swelling shut..... They never swell up outside. Thats inherent to brake lines, they are built to not swell up under pressure. One reason why they make steel braided lines, to counter the high brake fluid pressures, they wrap it in stainles braided wire...

Plain old rubber is fine, but the age and chemical reaction can shrink that inner lumen, and fluid movement is hindered. If the rubber lines are more thn ten years old, they could stand to be replaced anyway, and they aren't expensive or hard to change out.

 

ty geevee for the brake line help i just replaced them all to hard metal lines exept the caliper lines but there new rubber lines

 

are the calipers rebuilt or brand new . i had to use alot of wd and a clamp to get my calipers functioning goodluck

 

yes it does after ive been driving for a little bit.when my trucks completely cool havent ran they are normal driving.30 mins later grinding to a stop.when im in it and its not running the brakes build alot of pressure and i wont even be able to push in even a 1/8 of a inch like pretty much not move till i start the truck. then they let off to a free position

 

hahah 22rucrazy.yeah there rebuild cardone set i bought them with pads loaded and bench bled

 

should i take them off and manually move the pistons in the caliper?

 

if you pull those calipers and don't notice a significant problem with pushing that piston in, i'd think the guilty part is the booster. but its always possible to get bad rebuilds if you just replaced em, and you may need to swap/warranty them.

you had no problems at all with bleeding them out huh? hmmm....

 

hahahah see the trick with bleeding i paid lol took it to a local tire shop and they fixed my rear perportion valve for my load displacement on my axel.i replaced the rear wheel cylinders for the drums , the hoses , front calipers , booster then master cylinder 2 master cylinders were bad got tierd of fighting then had the tire place do the rest.
1. is it posible that my booster push rod is going to deep into the master cylinder?
when i put it on i noticed the push rod has a nut on it for ajustment .
2.or could it be put on wrong at the pedal?
will be checking the calipers and pistons on 9/29/09 cross fingures for no big problems lmao

 

I once had a Ford Escort that had a front caliper that would lock on me and drag going down the road, it would get hot enough to glow at night.
I beat my brains out for a while just to discover that it was indeed a bad rubber brake line causing the problem.
When rubber brake hoses get some kind of constriction they will let fluid in one way but not back out the other, this is due to the pressure of you applying the brakes pushing past the partial blockage, the fluid will then not want to ease back out as it should when you let off the brakes.

 

ill check i just got done taking it all apart and idk dident fix nuttin im out of ideas i couldent reproduce the problem while it was all apart.?.