Well, as you can see in the title, I bought the ProComp skid plate for 4" lift for my 1993 SR5 Pickup with a 4" Rough Country suspension lift. It doesen't fit. I know that it mounts to the same holes that the original skid plate mounted into, but the plate I got is about an inch too short, front to back. Also, I had to take off the front tow hooks to even get it into where it WOULD get bolted to. Anyone else had this experience? It's really irritating, because I'm only in PA until next Friday, and I really don't want to have to ship this thing back. I was thinking of just getting a piece of metal to make the reach that the plate doesen't, and just rig it up like that, but I shouldn't have to.

 

Pics might help...

So it suppose to mount to the bottom side of the front frame crossmember?

 

Yeah, to the bottom of the front crossmember for the frame, and to the bottom A-arm crossmember. I'll go take some pics quick.

 

Looks like this one:

 

This is the plate, under the truck, obviously:

This is the front crossmember for the frame, it bolts to the 2 holes on each end of the picture:

Then it's supposed to bolt to the holes that are under the 2 bolts that hold the L shaped piece for the bracket drop:

 

Why not just buy the RC one that goes sith the lift you got instead of another brand? You probably got more lift than you think you got? Got any body lift?

 

As everyone seems to like to do here
x2 on that suggestion.
Also, why in blazes do you have two steering stabilizers on that thing ?
Good grief you think that you're some big 'ole monster truck or something




Fred

 

Actually, I don't think that body lift would effect that. It mounts on the frame and lower suspension. Two steering stabilizers is kinda overkill too...

Ok, so when you mate up the small tab to the upper crossmember and then try to mate up the long tab to the lower crossmember it doesn't reach? Or does it just need bent?

 

What does a body lift have to do with frame and suspension?

In addition all bracket lifts are the same, they drop the diff 4" and then you can get the extra 1" or so of lift by crankin them t-bars up... Frame is still in the same place.

Return it to poocomp and get one made... Cheaper, stronger and will fit!

 

I didn't think RC made one, and I can't find one if they do. I think I can get it to fit if I bend the bolting edges out a little bit, and the RC lifts say 4-5", and the distance between where the bottom a-arm crossmember bolts now to where it did before the lift is 5", That may be the problem I suppose. Having one made just seems like a hassle, plus I don't have much time here in PA to be messing around with all that, I just figured I could by one that was supposedly made for my truck and be good to go. As far as the dual steering stabilizers, according to the site: "Improves control and handling for oversize tires as well improves tire and ball joint wear", and what's an extra 90 bucks?

 

Hmmm, well you'd have to measure between the bolts where the drop bracket mounts. That should be 4" and to get that extra inch, you'd have to crank your torsion bars.

I have a BudBuilt skid up front and I had to finesse it to fit my truck(it was actually TOO bent and I had to flatten it out a little) and it was made for a 4" lift as well. If you can bent the tabs to line everything up then bend it!!!! lol!

 

If the front end is in good condition, then you don't even need a steering stabilizer, especially if the vehicle has PS, if not, then ya, I would say you need one, but only one. I ran for years without one and that's running 35's and wheeling rocks the like you can't believe AND this was my daily driver. Had no problems at all. Actually a lot of people out here don't run them.

Next time 'ya got an extra 90 lying around with nothing to do, send it to me. I'll put it to better use




Fred