Bolt-on looks expensive. I doubt I will sell my truck for a long time to come. I can't see anything that would be made more difficult to work on with the addition of weld-on sliders.

Also, any guidelines to how far they should stick out?

 

Not really. I hear people say they want bolt ons so they can take them off and clean/paint behind them etc, but then they never do.

As for how far out ... it's kinda personal preference. People out west who 'wheel in rocks seem to keep them in tighter, while people in the East who 'wheel in trees put them out further. My recommendation is:
- the center of the outer tube lined up with a plumb bob hung off the widest part of the door
- the inner tube centered under the pinchweld

 

Thanks TC.

 

Im in the process of making the weld on sliders into bolt on's. My process will be to use the tg gusset kit, each plate with that kit has a hole on each corner. Will get everything cut to fit then weld 5/16 plate to the frame rails where the gusset plates hit. Drill and tap the plate to bolt the welded up sliders to..

 

Sounds like a lot of work to get all the downsides of weld-on and bolt on.

It's a lot easier to weld around the whole thing if you orient the plates like a diamond <> instead of a square [] BTW!

 

Only reason i think some people weld em to, is that on new trucks it can void the warranty(some of the guys in our local yota group have 07+ taco's and they've bolted them on) Other than that, i plan on welding mine out and to have them stick out a 1" past the widest body line

 

I've been looking for a set of bolt-on sliders. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would certainly appreciate it. I have to agree with the OP on this one as I would definately like to be able to remove them if I want.

 

I'd like bolt on just because I don't have a welder!

 

X2. Oh yeah, that too.

 

I welded mine and haven't regretted it yet. Here's a couple pics of mine and their placement.




I held mine out a bit further than TC recommended. The outside bar is about 1/4" inset from the outside of the tires. This gives me a bit more protection from rocks while off camber (not to mention car doors...). I cut and hammered the pinch welds to tuck them up tight to the body as well.

I'll do bolt ons on the FZJ80 because the exhaust runs on the outside of the frame. Welded sliders would not make it very fun to work on the exhaust at all...

 

If you're in a 4x4 club, there's probably someone that can weld and have a welder.

I welded mine on with 2" body lift. I thought about getting rid of the body lift after SAS. However, I didn't want to go through changing my bumper, slider and shock hoops.

 

You just had to post that picture up. Looks so similar to the my beloved SR5. Nice looking truck man! Really miss the Ext. Cab.

 

Welding on sliders I put the inner tube centered under the pinch weld 1/2" to 3/4" spacing. I got a board I use.

Weld on sliders can be removed and you would never know they were there unless you cut the frame tube in half to find the HAZ.

 

Wabbit if you build it, they will come. lol. Seriously though have you ever given any thought to developing bolt-on adapters? I would be interested.

 

I have both a bolt on set from Rocky Road and a weld on set from Trail Gear. I went bolt on for my newer vehicle (2006 Runner) because they were sleeker and I could remove them for resale. These are the Rocky Road sliders. I put the Trail Gear weld on sliders on my trail rig. They stick out 6 or 7 inches which provides good side protection.

The cost was a wash. The Rocky Road sliders cost me $400 and were powder coated. Install was real easy. The trail gear sliders cost $135 to buy, $40 to coat and $175 to have assembled and welded (you get the kit in pieces).

A regular Joe with regular tools can install the bolt ons. You need a welder, skill and a jig to install the kit.

The Rocky Road sliders are way more stout than the Trail Gear sliders. BUT...both have saved my @ss (or my rocker panels to be more exact).

It's a toss up and of course your call.

 

I have welded on sliders too, i put mine out far to deflect me from trees due to my sporatic driving. But Im not sure if they are legal or not. I know your not allowed to weld on any road legal vehicle unless you are a certified welder. Not that anyone follows that rule. But do you think you could run into trouble for that if you were in an accident or something?

 

True, it's much stronger to have them welded on.

If you do choose to sell the vehicle, and feel that sliders would lower your resale value, you could cut them off, grind the welds flush, and touch up paint the frame.

No way I'd bolt sliders up. I'd probably find a way to get around the exhaust on an LX if I ever bought one.

So to answer the OP's question, no there aren't any reasons not to weld them on, or get them welded on if you can't weld.

 

I welded mine on ( a little too late ). Painted them with Rustoleum Black Hammerite. Probably a little too far out, but I wanted better protection for the sides. These pics are with 30 x 9.50 tires, not the 33 x 12.50's.

 

Phildelfino, those sticks out just fine. It's great for stopping shopping cart and car doors....

I gets marks all the time

 

To add a little fuel to the fire... in the US, it is technically illegal to modify the frame of any vehicle whether it be by welding or drilling. If you look at semi's or bobtails, you'll notice that attachments are done either by means of factory provided mount points or by 'sandwiching' the frame with U bolts and some lumber on top to provide some means to absorb flex in the frame without transmitting that to the attached box or body. Granted I'm using commercial vehicles as the demonstration but my 4Runner is registered as a commercial vehicle.
...so...
Having said that, I'm not partial to one way or the other. Bolting 'em makes sense if you plan on transferring them to the next vehicle. Welding makes sense too. Drilling holes in the frame will make the frame weaker, as welding will too. Insurance companies, should the need arise, may pay some extra attention to frame modifications if an accident occurs. If you can find a way to attach them without welding and by using existing mount points or holes in the frame, you're ahead of the game.

Just my 50 cents worth (which when corrected for inflation doesn't mean much).