So Im sitting here, staring at the screen wondering what to type.

Just got done redoing my headgasket. timing cover (guides, sprockets and chain look great) gasket, and oil pan gasket. Got it all back togethor last night. Figured Id wait till high noon to fire it up today. Me vs the work I just did (1st time headgasket. engnbldr top end gasket set.)

1130am - I push it out the garage into the driveway. Pull the coil wire, let it crank some to get oil around the motor. I make one more quick passover to make sure stuffs tightened and hooked up correctly.

1150am - noon, fire it up. Holy shes going great. I fill up the rad and set the timing. Go and look at the dash for lights, oil lights on. So I turn it off for a second, check the dipstick. The oil looks a little clear, huh, so I add a lil more oil. Turn it back on. Humming like a champion. Oil light stays on.

Turn it off after running a while, back her into the garage and pull the oil plug. Oils draining out, so I get up and theres smoke/steam? coming from the oil cap opening. I then check the oil. Slight tint of milk to the oil and very nice metalic look to it (almost like metal flake paint).

I know that the 1st oil change after any work like that is suppos to be"dirty", but thats a bit excessive to me. I do not think I lost any coolent while it ran, still looks just as full.

At this moment I am crushed. I took the valve cover off and retorqed the head bolts.

Here I sit, afraid to put the valve cover back on and start it for fear of a full rebuild on my daily driver (been on unemployment during this lil venture).

When I let the oil sit, it just looks like used oil, when I move the container the slight milkyness shows and so does the metal flake.

Sorry just needed to vent a little bit. I guess it could be worse.

 

ok man you need to prime your oil passage

this happened on my new motor but I did not fire it up

instead I took off the valve cover and turned it over until I saw oil go onto the cam....

sounds to me like you didn't get oil onto the top of the motor pull the valve cover, disconnect the coil and turn it over to see if oil is getting on to the cam. If so we''l go from there

 

When I changed my timing chain/water pump/oil pump I ALSO saw really milky oil after on my fresh oil change. Apparently theres residual water that slides down into the exposed oil pan and this was enough to turn my oil a RICH MILKY color. After that I pulled the oil pan, cleaned it all up and re-sealed her up and added fresh oil.

Since then my oil is CLEAR.
Maybe your gonna have to run it for a few minutes and to thoroughly mix the water with the oil and then run 1/2 a quart or so through it to flush out anything else.

 

Its getting oil in the top end. Kinda weak tho. Might pull the oil pan again to check it all out.

But now I'm just trying to run it for a minute, just to hear it. She trys to start once, then doesn't even seem to try to start (does turn over tho). Rechecked timing 6 times and has spark (even pulled the plugs and cleaned em again). Seems to be getting fuel, and yet she doesn't wanna turn.

I'm half tempted to run by pull apart and see about getting another carb and 2 rebuild kits, just to have a spare in case (plus its nice to have one that works to look at when rebuilding).

Thanks though guys. I don't think the 1st oil is as bad now knowing others have had it too (I was freakin the f*** out pissed for a while)

 

So after reading yotarr (I think is the name) post about his 3rd cylinder not firing, I went and check my valve clearances out. Sure enough they were super tight. So I reset them the best I could (stupid guage I had only went to .010). So I half assed set the intake and the exhaust were set to fsm specs. It runs. Sounds awesome. Still gotta advance the timing a little, but she purrs quietly.

I knew I forgot something. Always do. Grrrrrr

Gonna get stuff for another oil change, and also a good feeler guage and set the valves again to the actual specs.

I've let it run for a while, everything seems to check out.

Now one thing that is bothering me. I went to get an oil filter and the one from the book at autozone is too small. I have a bigger oil filter. Kinda crappy, but o well.

So all in all, at this point I call it yota - 1 me - 1 (yaaaaayyyyy hahaha)

 

fram oil filter: PH3614 (standard), XG3614 (extended life), TG3614 (heavy duty. )
Mobil 1: M1-102
bosch: 3330
They're all fairly short filters- maybe 4" long overall. K&N and a few others offer filters that are a tad, maybe 1", longer.

Keep us filled in on how it goes.

 

haha ^^great to hear i helped someone on that deal i was pissed, and yeah that was after i got my top end back together, the oil was NASTY when i changed it afterwards, had bits of gaskets and ALOT of water when i drained it i had the valve cover off and i poured an entire new quart of oil over everything just to make sure i got most of all the nasty stuff, then when i added my oil i poured another quart over everything then filled her up normally..good to go, just gotta go install my new guages now

 

oh yeah and the new oil filter i got (stp) was about 1" bigger around than the crappy fram that was on there, all is well as long as the gasket surface is in the same spot

 

Yah that's the one I got, the one that's on there appears to be wider.
Went out this morning just to hear it run for a bit (haha, yah yah, retarded - according to my gf). I have to go to fair with the gf so it has to wait till tomorrow probably to investigate farther.

And I got the call friday, yet another week of unemployment. Pullapart carb rebuild time I guess. Haha

 

lol i did the same thing, the gf's like wtf r u doing, uhh listening to it, she walks away shaking her head

 

Yoterr thanks bro. I was gonna reply to ur thread sayin your a lifesaver. I was stumped, neighbor (yota tech) was stumped, I even call and had the p.o. Come by and look at it. Then I read that and had my homer simpson moment. "Doh"

Yah she just stated she's sick of this site. Hahahahaha cuz Im always browse using my sidekick lx phone. (Can't quote, can only use quick reply, kinda sucks, but o well at least I can post)

 

lmao yeah im allways on it checkin stuff out, tryin to figure out my own probs, its great, i need a new phone....and i think im gonna get one that has internet

 

Well I figured out where the metal flake in the oil came from. The oil pump. I'll take pics and post it when I'm done (got pics from the whole headgasket process.. At least when I remembered to take em).

Looks like where the smaller gear sits inside the oil pump cover was slightly off angle when I put it back togethor. Looks like a brake rotor now with lines in it from rubbing. Good thing I noticed leaking from the oil pump and was able to get it out.

Yota - 2 me - 1

Before I noticed the leak, got the valves set correctly and the timing done right. She rans so fu**ing nice too. O well, glad I found it now rather than later. I hope pullapart has some 22r's in the lot, 100 bucks for a new one is kinda crappy considering the unemployment situation. Worst case scenario, I order one from ebaymotors.

 

whoa 100 bucks for a new one geez, yeah at least you found it instead of it REALLY screwing things up, you wouldent happen to have removed ur EGR stuff would ya? i did cuz it was rendered inop by the P.O and he had home made blockoff plates made so i just ordered some from LCE and took it all of, and now it idles high im guessing because of my miss routing of vac lines

 

Yah I'm glad I found it. But after I got the timing right, it was so quiet. Quietest since I've driven it anyways.

As far as egr, I saw ur post hoping it explained how to remove it all. Lol. Mines still stock. Stock everything motor and drivetrain wise, just suspension stuff is rancho.

When I put my head back on the other day I used this schematic

Http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...wless/carb.jpg

Sorry I can't actually link the pic in. I forget how using coding.

I also used some pics from a main poster on yotatech. I forget his name.

Http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...4/100_1259.jpg

And

Http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...4/100_1257.jpg

Maybe using those u can figure out the hoses u need to keep and the points that u need to cap off. Sorry best I can come up with. Hopefully u can use those pics.

 

Oh man.... Intense diagnostics! I can only hope I am sweating like this when we do Tippy!

 

LMAO^^^ those last 2 pics are of my truck with all the EGR stuff on with all the vac lines hahaha thats funny heres what i got now




and yeah ive read like threw like 100s of threads about EGR removal but i cant find any info on actually removing it, and doing so on a carb so yeah im stuck

 

I check and recheck everything I do. I can't help it, I guess I'm ocd that way. I have issues trusting my work, people I've learned from have half @ssed a lot of stuff. I'm not like that. I've assisted with a guy on 2 rebuilds, a 289 and a flathead (sadly both fords, flat was a cool design tho), and both had to be repulled and redone cuz he didn't spec stuff. In fact the neighbor stated its one of the damn nicest headgasket jobs he's seen a backyard mechanic do.

Yoterr
Hahaha like I said, a main poster had posted those pics.

Sorry I couldn't help. That diagram might give u an idea. Didn't help me for tho. Lol ur pics helped me get it done, then in the end I had a left over hose, but everythings hooked up. Lol ran great too. Thanks for the help with that too. Hahahahaha

 

lol yeah the diagram would help but i get lost trying to follow where the lines go though the steel ones, i dont have the whole steel vac lines anymore, i took em out, wich sadly may end up to be a PIA.....and glad to help

 

We'll see how tomorrow goes. Maybe I'll be able to trace it out for yah. Doubt the gf will give me that kinda time since she has tomorrow off, and I'm pushin it tryin to go to pullapart. Maybe wednesday then. But I'm not sure how much of a help I'm gonna be. I could strip most of the emissions crap outta mine, but I'm not 100% sure I wanna do that yet.