I ordered a Trail Gear dual case crossmember thinking I read somewhere that it would work with a single case until I get duals. Come to find out it doesn't oh well, gives me a reason to go to duals now I'll probably go through Inchworm gear for the for the adapter and crawler and convert my forward shift into a top shift with the kit from Marlin or if I can find a cheap top shift t-case locally for cheap I'll just use that for the rear case. I'm figuring $650 for the crawler and adapter and $200-250 for the driveline extensions. I may go for the home brew square driveshaft in the front to make it cheaper. We'll see. Probably won't happen for a while, I gotta get some money together as I just bought 4.88's with an e-locker. But, after duals and some 33's it'll be time to hit up the Rubicon!

So the main point of this post is, you can't use a TG crossmember with only 1 case. Lesson learned.

 

How much did you pay for the e locker and 4:88's

 

Brand new U.S. Gear 4.88's installed in the e locker third was a steal at $550 and the front IFS third was $150 then like $90 bucks for shipping so roughly $790 all together.

 

Will TG take it back? I'd be surprised if they didn't. I've always had super good customer service with them.

But if you do decide to go duals, there are a few used dual setups for sale on Pirate right now. You might be able to save a good amount of cash.

 

I ordered it through inchwormgear.com. They might take it back, but I'll just keep it for when I go to duals later, I might as well. I'll have to check out pirate thanks for the heads up!

 

TG crossmember will work with a single gear driven T-case. You just need to use a hole saw to drill a new drain plug hole.
It will not work with the chain drive case without major surgery.

 

Here's something to consider before doing anything to make it work with a single case...

"The crossmember will work with the chain driven t-cases, However, it will not work with just a single case. You will need dual t-cases in order to use our dual case crossmember. Altering the crossmember to fit a single t-case will reduce the crossmember's integrity greatly and you would probably be better off using the stock crossmember." http://www.trail-gear.com/vbulletin/...er+single+case

If you really need a stout single case crossmember, you can always get a Budbuilt, and then just sell it once you're done with it. Whenever a used Budbuilt comes up for sale, they always seem to go pretty fast. Assuming it isn't bent or somehow mangled, I would imagine you could get a decent amount of your money back after selling it.

 

So would it fit without doing anything to it? I'd love to be able to put it under my truck with a single case, but I don't want to modify it at all...who needs a drain plug anyway? haha jk I'd put it under there if it was only the drain plug that didn't work...

And I'm not gunna get a budbuilt single crossmember cause I plan on going duals really soon already so I'll just keep this one rather than losing money on the shipping to return it and the 20% restocking fee, then buy a budbuilt and lose money on that...

 

On another note, I should be gettin my 33x10.50's within 2 weeks! How are you likin yours toyNG?

 

Davezoffroad www.davezoffroadperformance.com in Diamond springs deals with Jim at inchworm and always has cases laying around. You going with 4.7's in the rear case or just dual 2.28's for now? 2.28 doubled down does pretty well. I would go to driveline specialities in Concord for your rear shaft.

 

So far I love them. I've only been wheelin with them once. However, I'm currently running stock 4.10 gears. It hasn't been as bad as I thought it would be, but you can definitely feel the loss of power. I have both front and rear thirds with 4.88s sitting in my garage waiting to be installed. I'm sure it'll ride a lot nicer once those are on.

Two other things I noticed since moving from 31s to 33s...
- A slight loss in braking ability. It's not at all that I feel I'm in danger of not being able to stop. I just press a little bit harder, or earlier, now.
- The effects of my absent sway bar are actually noticeable now. With my 31s, I honestly did not feel any difference after removing the sway bar. With the 33s, I can feel that it likes to lean a bit on turns.

 

I'm plannin on just goin with dual 2.28's for now then later down the road I'll go with the 4.7 in the back. You think I could get a good deal from Dave's I'll check out there website later tonight when I have more time. And I was lookin up places for the driveshaft extensions and I saw that on google maps along with some other places in Sac and one in Vacaville, Webb's welding, but I'd definitely go to a driveline specific shop. How much do they charge in Concord?

Sweet, my sway bar is still on, but I'm gunna be gettin some quick disconnects or makin my own. Thanks for the headsup on the brakes, I'll make sure they're in tip top shape

 

Do you have a link that shows how to modify it to fit your (formerly) single case?

 

I saw a picture of when he modifed it on either here or pirate. Didnt look like it took much work. Ill see if I can find it.

 

Here ya go....

 

Is that the V6 or 4cyl x-member, and do you have a 22RE or 3VZE engine in your truck?

 

It's the 4cyl, and I have a 22re