Ok. WTF? I'm about to jump my battery to get my truck started up again (after 7 months of sitting and repairs). I seem to have lost a lug so I'm not ready to get her on the road just yet... I reconnect the negative battery terminal and the brake/tail lights are on. They just stay on. Why? I didn't mess with the wiring (other than connect some stuff to the new dash). I did just redo the brakes... but it doesn't make sense to me that the tail lights are lit just because. Not only that, but the driver's side is actually hot to the touch.

Anyone have any ideas? Did I screw something up? I did just do some work on my brakes. Could this be from the bleeding process somehow?

 

okay okay. more information that may be relevant:

I recently swapped out a not-really-working gauge cluster for one out of an auto. maybe this is my issue. the back door light is on, the tach doesn't work and the temp goes immediately through the roof. anyone think this could be my issue?

 

bump and update:
I swapped in my old gauge cluster and, as I assumed, it still happens. I did a master cylinder upgrade (along with most of the rest of my brakes). I thought that might have something to do with it, but even disconnected, the tail lights are lit. I just can't figure it out. Why would my brake lights stay lit even when the key isn't in the ignition, the lights aren't on, etc.?

 

Isn't there a little sensor on the shaft of the brake pedal that makes the lights come on when it's pushed? Could that thing be bad or maybe have been messed up?

 

Maybe... I'll get the multimeter out and check it. It doesn't look bad from what I can see. Guess I'll tear apart the dash again and see if I can't find something. I feel like there must be a short (though I'm not really sure how to find one). It makes sense that it would have something to do with a sensor or relay or something for the brakes since the tail lights don't get brighter when I depress the pedal.

Something else strange that I noticed too is that my driver side tail light is getting super hot really quickly once I reconnect the negative battery terminal.

 

Junkers, you're my hero! LOL

Apparently the spring that pulls the pedal back is a little worn after 21 years and isn't doing it's job properly. I wedged something between the pedal and the push button switch thing that depresses when the pedal retracts and, viola! lights turned off.

Thank god it wasn't an actual wiring issue. That would have warranted a trip to a mechanic. I won't mess around with electrical issues. Again, Yotatech saves the day.

(Now I can comfortably break in my new brakes, gears and locker!)